Adventure Patagonia special APA240A
Today is the first day of our Patagonia adventure. But there's not much to report yet. First of all, it's time to arrive, relax and make our luggage weatherproof. In the evening we meet up for the welcome briefing. Thanks to Bond, everyone gets the most important things. And despite the fact that our guide doesn't speak a word of Thai, the briefing was great fun. A bit of paperwork later, we have dinner together. And fall into bed full of anticipation for the first day of riding. Tomorrow we will finally set off on our adventure.
Today is finally our first riding day. The Chilean weather is at its best, the sun is shining and there is no rain in sight. This can only be great. But before we can start, we first need motorcycles. So we take an unspectacular cab to the rental station. Which is also a store for motorcycle accessories. A few intercom systems and gloves later, we finally get going. After a few kilometers on the highway, we find ourselves in the Chilean hinterland. There is hardly any traffic and we can enjoy the beautiful and amazingly green landscape in peace and quiet. We ride on winding country roads along lakes and rivers. Mighty mountains and snow-covered volcanoes tower up in the background. The play of colors is stunning. The few larger towns we pass through are surprisingly busy. A last rebellion of civilization before we set off into the wilderness. The day was perfect to get a first impression of the country, the people and our bikes. It leaves us wanting more. Our destination today is Pucon. The place is not only an outdoor sports paradise. It is also beautiful, situated in a lake district. Just the right place to end this first day.
Riding day number two begins and once again we seem to be lucky with the weather. It's still a bit chilly, but there's no rain in sight. And even if this day looks very short on paper, it will still have a lot to offer. Because yesterday was just a foretaste, today the adventure really begins. We leave Pucon and take the Mamuil Malal Pass towards the Argentinian border. The road is winding and the landscape breathtaking, with araucarias everywhere along the way and snow-capped mountains on the horizon. The border crossing goes quickly and without any problems, so welcome to Argentina. And welcome to gravel. The Mamuil Malal Pass is not paved on the Argentinian side. After the first few kilometers of gravel we reach Junin where we have lunch and quickly realize that Chile and Argentina are very different. Of course we could continue on the famous Routa 40, but why should we? There is an almost deserted and interesting gravel road leading through the mountains and along Lago Lolog. And so we spend the afternoon doing what we came for. Enjoying dirt roads and impressive landscapes. Our destination today is San Martin de los Andes, a small town and at the same time the tourist epicenter of the region. It is somewhat reminiscent of ski resorts in Europe or Canada. What a day.
Our third day of riding begins as the last one ended, with the best weather and the best mood. That this day would be a little more adventurous than planned. We had no idea at the time. But first things first. Everyone will get a good night's sleep today. After leaving San Martin, we once again enjoy the view over this beautiful part of the world. We first follow the famous Routa 40 until we turn off onto the Passo Cordoba. A really well-maintained gravel road through an unbelievably beautiful mountain landscape....until...yes, until we can go no further. After 40 kilometers, the road is suddenly blocked. So we have to go all the way back and take the alternative route. That's how it is sometimes when you're on an adventure tour. Of course, the alternative route is no less spectacular than the original. And so we follow the sometimes very winding Routa 40 along the shores of a total of 7 lakes, one more beautiful than the next. At the end of the day, we encounter the infamous Patagonian wind and the rain, which in turn shrouds the landscape in a mysterious veil. Of course, we lost a lot of time in the morning and that wasn't the only detour we took that day. But at the end of the day, it's still a great feeling to have done it. We can say that we got the most out of the day. Everybody will have a good sleep tonight.
As the morning dawns, the view out of the window does not bode well at first. The streets are damp, it is raining lightly and a thick layer of fog lies over the city. But Patagonia is always good for surprises. Just a few kilometers beyond the city limits, the first rays of sunshine fight their way through the clouds. The landscape is bathed in a magical play of light and color. And Patagonia offers us this magic all day long. Our first real stop today is a small coffee shop/museum which is probably not far from the place where Butch Cassidy hid from the authorities. A real hidden treasure, if you like. After just a few kilometers we reach the highlight of the day. Los Alceres National Park. The park is dedicated to the cypress tree species that only occurs here and is under strict protection. A gravel road leads through the park and its incredible landscape, making the heart of every adventure rider beat faster. Again and again Patagonia knows how to inspire us with the variety of colors and landscapes. In the afternoon we cross the border into Chile and our destination today is Futaleufu. Which we reach almost dry. In the evening we all cook and eat together. Thailand, Chile and Germany all united by common interests. This day was great. Let's see what awaits us tomorrow
After our evening cooking session, it's time to tidy up this morning. Luckily we're starting later than usual today. We're not as lucky with the weather today as we have been the last few days, so we don't make any unnecessary “detours” and shorten the day by around 35 km. But there is still plenty to see. The landscape we drive through today is lush green and full of life. Mighty trees, huge ferns and green meadows dominate the landscape wherever you look. Cattle and sheep graze everywhere along and sometimes on the way. Mighty rivers and high mountains form the backdrop. We cross these almost deserted landscapes on well-maintained asphalt and gravel roads. And despite the weather, the mood is good. Fog and rain lie over the scenery as if they were trying to hide something from us. This is Patagonia in its unadulterated form. Today we are driving along the famous Routa 7, a long-distance road that was once intended to connect the inaccessible south of Chile with the north. A significant part of Chile's recent history is inextricably linked to this road. During a long lunch break we warm up for the last kilometers of the day. Our destination today is Puyuhuapi. A place so small that it is not even marked on our maps. But its location on a fjord makes it something very special.
The rain is pattering softly on the corrugated iron roof of our hotel's conservatory. When we meet for breakfast in the morning. The mountains that frame the fjord carry clouds and mist like a veil. Overall, however, the rain is not even half as intense as yesterday. And so it's briefing time and off we go. Today we follow Routa 7, which for the first few kilometers south of Puyuhuapi hugs the cliffs and winds its way along the fjord. On our way we cross the Queulat National Park, the partly unpaved road leads us once again through a dense and evergreen forest. One section is particularly exciting, with a length of around 5 km and countless hairpin bends leading steeply uphill, at this point the gravel road is not very wide and usually surprisingly busy. However, we are lucky and manage to master the route without any oncoming traffic. Only a few minutes after we reach the top of the pass, the first four-ton trucks come towards us. The rain slowly subsides and visibility improves with every kilometer. The road winds its way through the landscape and there is a real flow. After lunch in Villa Manihuales, we hit the gravel once again and cross the Valle Rio Emperador Guillermo. The landscape opens up and a breathtaking view awaits us around every bend. The view into the distance is limited only by mighty snow-capped mountains. Our destination today is Cayhaique. A comparatively large city with 55 thousand inhabitants. The last one for the next few days;-)
Our last morning in “civilization” has arrived. No, it's not quite that dramatic, but Coyhaique is actually the last real town we'll get to see for a few days. The weather today looks much better than yesterday, it's hardly raining and visibility is improving with every kilometer. We leave the town and continue south on the Routa 7. The first 100 kilometers are still asphalted, but we will spend the rest of the day on very well-maintained gravel roads. The star of the day is once again the landscape. Mighty mountains, lakes and many small details along the way tempt us to pause for a moment. It becomes really spectacular when we reach the shores of Lago General Carrera, a lake measuring 1850 square kilometers and surrounded by mountains. We enjoy the view to the full over lunch. Then we fill the bikes and, for the first time, our jerry cans. Wilderness here we come. The last few kilometers to the hotel are characterized by spectacular views of the lake. It's one of those places you can't get enough of. Our destination today is Aldana, not really a town but with a very nice cabin hotel right on the lake. Dreamlike. And a perfect opportunity to conjure up a Thai menu with the simplest of means.
What a start to the day, as we open the curtains of our cabins this morning, the sun is smiling in our faces, the view from the windows promises a great day. Patagonia will be kind to us today. The peace and seclusion of our lovingly prepared accommodation radiates an incredible serenity. Today we will spend the whole day on wonderful gravel roads, we can't imagine how breathtaking it will be in the morning. Our first destination today is the “Parque Nacional Patagonia”, a national park that reflects the diversity of this region like no other place on our journey. After a short stop at the amazingly sophisticated visitor center, we leave the last remnants of civilization behind us and immerse ourselves in a natural paradise. To the left and right of the path, we repeatedly encounter wild guanacos, which are perfectly at home in this inhospitable landscape. The ribbon of gravel road that winds its way through the breathtaking landscape seems almost endless. From raging rivers to barren pampas, everything is here today. We search in vain for a restaurant for lunch out here, of course. A packed lunch from the hotel in the middle of the wilderness has to suffice for us today. Oh yes, there was something else, another border awaits us. We're heading back to Argentina. And as is usual in South America, the procedure takes as long as it takes. We are rewarded in Argentina with a completely new and spectacular landscape. The play of colors is unbelievable. Our destination today is Lago Posadas, a small village in the middle of nowhere. Little to no internet, a petrol station with indefinable opening hours but a fantastic dinner. Welcome to the adventure.
We wake up this morning to the crowing of a rooster for the first time on our tour. The sun is shining and it's pleasantly warm. The perfect day to ride a motorcycle. After a short briefing, we set off. The owner of our hotel has informed the owner of the gas station in town that we would like some gas. Yes, that's how it works here and so we fill our tanks to the brim, because who knows when the next time there will be gas. The landscape today is much more barren than in the last few days. We are literally out in the pampas. We drive the first 80 km on a more or less well prepared gravel road heading north-west. There are half-skeletonized carcasses of guanacos lying on and beside the road. More seclusion is not possible. But despite its inhospitality, this landscape is breathtakingly beautiful. Our first and only “real” stop today is a small town called Bajo Caracoles. An oasis in the wasteland. The town has a petrol station, a hotel, a bar, a coffee shop, a restaurant AND a supermarket. The funny thing is, it's all in one building. Which, on top of that, is not really big. We fill up our supplies here and fill up again to be on the safe side. Can you feel the adventure? We continue on the unspectacular Routa 40 for almost 2 hours straight through the pampas, where occasional stops are very welcome. After this long time, we are glad to finally be able to turn off onto the gravel again. The last few kilometers to our very remote accommodation are a bit of a challenge. Also for various attachments such as gearshifts, which are unfortunately hit by a stone. Fortunately, we have Alvaro, our mechanic, with us who conjures a solution out of his hat without further ado. Our destination today is a farm in the middle of nowhere. We enjoy the peace and quiet and round off the day with a BBQ.
The silence around us is almost palpable. We find it difficult to leave this place. But after all, we want to reach the end of the world. And there is still a long way to go. The farm has a small tanker, so we fill up our fuel reserves just before we leave. And then we hit the road. We are almost alone on the road for the first 30 kilometers. The landscape is vast and barren, herds of wild guanacos roam the plains. When we reach the famous Routa 40, we also make the acquaintance of the famous Patagonian wind. In addition, the road in this area is not asphalted and the gravel is sometimes very deep. This makes driving an exhausting affair. Then, in the middle of nowhere, an oasis awaits us. A small place called Tres Lagos, which promises shelter from the wind and something to eat. The last few kilometers to our destination fly by, the road is asphalted and often dead straight. The Fitz Roy massif looms up in front of us, shrouded in clouds. At its foot lies the small village of El Chalten, where we will spend the night.
We meet for breakfast much later than usual today. The day is short and we will only be riding on asphalt roads today. So there's no rush. After the briefing, we first have to get some fuel. As Chalten has the only petrol station in the area, we have to queue. But Patagonia rewards us with a magnificent view of the Fitz Roy. The weather is excellent today, the few clouds add the finishing touches to the atmosphere. And so we enjoy the view back to Chalten with one crying and one laughing eye. Back on the Routa 40, we are once again confronted with the notorious Patagonian wind. At least it is very predictable, albeit very strong today. And so we drive through the endless pampas and enjoy the view into the distance. Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino impress us with a blue that is difficult to describe. We recharge our batteries in a small “oasis” called La Leona. Our destination today is El Calafate, a surprisingly large town in the middle of the Pampas. The famous Perito Moreno National Park is practically on our doorstep. And is just waiting to be discovered by us.
This morning is the first time we don't have to pack our seven things. Because we're staying in our hotel for two nights. That almost feels too lazy;-) Our destination today is the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. There are lots of different ways to explore it. But first we have to ride into the national park. Light rain clouds are still hanging in the mountains of the park and so we drive along Lago Argentino towards the rainbow. There is no chest of gold waiting for us at the end of the lake, but there is a wonderfully winding road along it. We decide to discover the glacier by boat. After all, today is a rest day. The trip to the glacier itself only takes a few minutes and so we have all the time in the world to admire this mighty ice sheet while floating on the lake. The weather is kind to us, on the way back to town it is dry and sunny. So we can enjoy the fantastic road through the national park to the full. After a sumptuous lunch, we still have enough time to explore the town. We also missed civilization. Or maybe not?
The day begins with sunshine and without the famous wind. That already looks good. So we quickly listen to the briefing and get on our bikes. The roads today are all tarred and partly dead straight, but our mission will be to avoid the potholes. Which requires some attention. First we leave El Calafate the same way we arrived. We ride through seemingly endless pampas. Every now and then we stop to let our gaze wander over the vast plains. And, of course, to apply a sticker or two;-). After more than a hundred kilometers we finally reach the small town of La Esperanza, our coffee and petrol oasis this morning. A motorcycle on strike, endless pampas and over a hundred kilometers later, the landscape gradually becomes greener and hillier again. We reach the small town of Rio Turbio. At this point, we have already covered most of the kilometers. But that's right, there was something. We are returning to Chile today. And that means bringing time with us. Because this time the border officials are very strict again. And so we have to empty our fuel canisters before the border, otherwise we won't be allowed to cross. Back in Chile, it's only a stone's throw to the hotel. Our destination today is Puerto Natales. A town which is connected to the South Pacific via a confusing network of fjords. The Torres del Paine National Park is right on the hotel doorststep. We'll take a closer look at it tomorrow.
Today the time has finally come, one of the absolute highlights of this tour is within reach. The Torres del Paine National Park. We start a little earlier than usual to avoid the bus traffic as much as possible. And we should succeed. We ride through the park in a clockwise direction, which means we start immediately after leaving the hotel on the gravel. The roads to and in the park are not very wide. And sometimes very winding. They wind through forests, along beautiful lakes and rugged rock faces. A dream not only in terms of scenery. The sight of the rock formations known as Torres del Paine is omnipresent. And so we stop again and again to enjoy the incredible landscape. Including a short hike to a waterfall called Salto Grande. After the gray and brown of the Pampas, which we have been driving through for the last few days. The luminosity of the colors seems even more intense. And no matter how many pictures we take. You can only really capture the true beauty of this place with your own eyes. In the early afternoon, rain clouds roll in and threateningly wrap around the peaks of Paine del Torres. We take one last look back and make our way back. The last hundred kilometers, with the exception of a few construction sites, are on paved roads back to the hotel. Here the sun is waiting for us again and we have plenty of time to reflect on what we have experienced on a walk along the promenade.
With a last look back at the fjord of Puerto Natales, we continue our journey to the end of the world today. We have a long day ahead of us. We will cross over to Tierra del Fuego today, marking a major milestone on our journey. But first we have to make some milage. The roads are often straight and there is hardly any traffic. The landscape is flat and sparsely vegetated. You can tell that the few plants have survived in the harsh conditions of Patagonia. Far and wide there is only one village along the way, Villa Tehueche will be our coffee oasis this morning. We then turn off onto a beautiful gravel road, which runs parallel to the main road and gives us some variety. Again and again, small and surprisingly large details along the way break up the ride. This is exactly how you imagine a trip to the inhabited end of the world. We reach the harbor just in time for lunch. After a hearty trucker's lunch, we cross over to Tierra del Fuego. Our destination today is Cerro Sombrero. A small village in the wasteland. Tomorrow we continue on to Ushuaia. End of the world here we come.
Today is finally here, the day of days. We set off for Ushuaia. The dream destination of many travelers, not only on a motorcycle. But before we can set this great milestone for ourselves, we still have a few kilometers to go. We head south and cross the seemingly endless pampas of Tierra del Fuego. No people, no traffic, just the guanacos and us. Our destination is Paso San Sebastian and with it the border to Argentina. To make the crossing as uncomplicated as possible, we have left everything behind that we won't need for the next 3 days. The rest of our luggage is not, as usual, stored on the support vehicle but on the motorcycles. A coffee and a small snack are of course a must before the border adventure. Thanks to our preparations, the border crossing itself is quick and uncomplicated. This automatically means more time for the finer things in biker life. Our next destination is Rio Grande, where we replenish our reserves and those of the bikes. It's particularly cool to meet Diego, a local whose car looks like many of the signs, petrol stations or crash barriers at the cafés or viewpoints in Patagonia. We strike up a conversation and get to decorate his car with more stickers. That's what makes this kind of travel so special. We continue on our way. The landscape becomes greener and snow-covered mountains loom on the horizon. We almost have the Pampas behind us. And enough time to really enjoy the last few kilometers. After a short stop at what is probably Argentina's most famous bakery, the Paso Garibaldi awaits us. This takes us on a wonderfully winding road through a mountain landscape alongside lakes and forests. And then the time has finally come. We reach Ushuaia and we take the time to celebrate this moment properly. It is a fantastic feeling to be standing here after so many days full of unique moments. We have achieved what so many people dream of. And the best thing is. This trip is not over yet.
After we have made it to Ushuaia. Of course, we don't turn back immediately. We stay here for two nights to have enough time to explore the area. In the morning we meet up for a boat trip. On the beautifull Beagel channel. Our destination is not only the famous lighthouse at the end of the world. But also the Isla Martillo, where there is a steadily growing breeding colony of Magelan's penguins. We are lucky, and not just with the weather. We also get to see one of the rare elephant seals. In the afternoon we have enough time to stroll through the town and spend a peso or two on a souvenir. Tomorrow we head north again.
The heavy rain of the night has cleared and the day greets us with glorious sunshine. Today we set off back north as planned. But before we finally leave Ushuaia behind us, we drive a little way south. Our first destination today is Tierra del Fuego National Park. In this densely forested area, in addition to the beautiful nature, there is not only the southernmost post office in Argentina and old train technology to marvel at, but this is also where the Ruta 3 ends, in the bay of Lapataia, making it the southernmost point we can reach on our motorcycles. Of course, we don't want to miss out on this...just this one cloud...well, that's Patagonia😉 But then it's time to say goodbye. We leave the beautiful mountain world around Ushuaia the same way we arrived. Over the Paso Garibaldi, we enjoy the spectacular views and the fantastic route one last time. A beautiful restaurant located on a small lake will be our place to relax and have lunch today. Relaxation and energy is exactly what we need because back in the Pampas, the notorious wind is waiting for us again, which is shaking us particularly hard today. Our destination today is Rio Grande, a young city and the commercial center of Tierra del Fuego. In our very chic hotel, we really enjoy ourselves once again. Tomorrow will be a long day.
The wind has died down overnight and the sun is shining. The best conditions for our last day of driving. We set off early. This will soon prove to be a good decision. And so we follow the same route as we did on our way south. Endless pampas, guanacos and the odd estancia, but we already know all that. The first border crossing on the Argentinian side is surprisingly quick. And while we can hardly believe our luck, the crossing on the Chilean side very quickly brings us back to South America's reality. In the end, the crossing takes almost 1.5 hours. We have earned our coffee afterwards. We reach the Strait of Magellan again around midday. And take the ferry back to the mainland. Huge sandwiches and the last few kilometers of the tour await us there. By the time we return the bikes, everyone realizes that this great adventure ends here. What have we not experienced, seen and felt? We have battled the elements and experienced the raw beauty of Patagonia with all our senses. To have mastered this dream tour is something very special. Thank you for following us on this adventure Thomas