Andalusian-Moroccan Adventure: From the Mediterranean to the Atlas

Česká verze níže. Czech version below. First Ride of Our Spain & Morocco Trip Today was the first ride of our Spain and Morocco adventure! We kicked off the day from our lovely hotel in Marbella, where our motorcycles and cars were lined up, ready to go. After a short briefing about the day's plan, we made our way out of town. The first stretch was on the highway, giving us time to get comfortable on the bikes before diving into the fun part. As soon as we left the coast, the road became twistier, and we got to enjoy the sweeping curves of southern Spain. The recent rains had turned the landscape lush and green, making the scenery even more stunning. Our first proper stop was at a small café, the kind that doesn’t see many tourists—perfect for a local experience. We grabbed some coffee and breakfast tapas to fuel up (though, as it turns out, tapas can also be great for napping through most of the ride as a passenger princess). From there, the route took us further inland, winding through countless turns before leading us back towards the coast. Our lunch stop was in Algeciras, and we arrived a little ahead of schedule—so early, in fact, that the restaurant staff were still having their own lunch! Despite that, they welcomed us in and took great care of us. They set up a table on the rooftop terrace, overlooking the beach and ocean—a perfect spot. We started with tapas, followed by steaks or tuna, making sure we weren’t missing out on anything. To top it off, we even got mini cappuccinos—so we had all bases covered. After lunch, we made our way to Tarifa. Normally, the town is buzzing with surfers and kitesurfers, but today the wind was missing, so we didn’t see any action. Still, the beach was absolutely beautiful and well worth the visit. The road ran parallel to the coastline for a while before heading back inland. We made a quick stop at the Roman ruins, then returned to the hotel. To wrap up the day, we headed to the poolside bar, overlooking the ocean, for some well-deserved drinks and cigars—the perfect way to wind down. Not everyone joined the ride today due to feeling under the weather, but thanks to a special kind of support vehicle, everyone was able to meet up for drinks in the evening. All in all, a fantastic start to the tour—and a great sign of what’s to come! ***** První jízda naší španělsko-marocké tour Dnes jsme zahájili první jízdu našeho dobrodružství ve Španělsku a Maroku! Začali jsme den v našem krásném hotelu v Marbelle, kde už byly připravené naše motocykly a auta. Po krátkém briefingu o plánu dne jsme vyrazili z města. První úsek vedl po dálnici, abychom se mohli v klidu seznámit s motorkami, než začne ta pravá zábava. Jakmile jsme opustili pobřeží, silnice se stala klikatější, a my jsme si mohli užít zatáčky jižního Španělska. Po nedávných deštích byla krajina nádherně zelená a svěží, což ještě umocnilo krásu výhledu. Naším prvním opravdovým zastavením byla malá kavárna, která nevidí mnoho turistů – ideální místo pro místní zážitek. Dopřáli jsme si kávu a snídaňové tapas, abychom doplnili energii (i když se ukázalo, že tapas jsou také skvělé na to, abyste jako passenger princess prospali většinu cesty). Odtud nás čekala cesta dál do vnitrozemí, s nekonečnými zatáčkami, než jsme se opět vydali směrem k pobřeží. Na oběd jsme zastavili v Algeciras a dorazili jsme o něco dříve, než jsme plánovali – tak brzy, že personál restaurace ještě měl vlastní oběd! I přesto nás přivítali a postarali se o nás skvěle. Připravili pro nás stůl na střešní terase s výhledem na pláž a oceán – ideální místo. Začali jsme tapas, následovaly steaky nebo tuňák, abychom si užili vše, co nabízeli. Na závěr jsme dostali mini cappuccina – všechno bylo dokonale zařízené. Po obědě jsme pokračovali do Tarify. Obvykle je toto město plné surfařů a kitesurfařů, ale dnes tu chyběl vítr, takže jsme žádnou akci neviděli. I přesto byla pláž naprosto krásná a stála za návštěvu. Cesta nás vedla nějaký čas podél pobřeží, než jsme se opět vydali do vnitrozemí. Krátce jsme se zastavili u římských ruin, a pak jsme se vrátili zpět do hotelu. Den jsme zakončili u pool baru s výhledem na moře, kde jsme si dali pár zasloužených drinků a cigár – ideální způsob, jak zakončit den. Ne každý se dnešní jízdy zúčastnil, protože někteří se necítili úplně fit, ale díky speciálnímu podpoře vozidla se nakonec všichni večer sešli na drinky. Celkově to byl fantastický start do naší tour – a dobré znamení toho, co nás ještě čeká!
Leaving Zahara we followe the coast for a little while until we turned inland. Windmill farms along the road are there for a certain reason as some gusty wind proofed. Fertile farm country as far as you could see, interrupted by the typical white villages of Andalusia, mostly located on top of the hills. Entering the Parque Natural los Acornocales the countryside became less habitated, at a certain sealevel the pine forrest changed into a oaktree forrest. You could tell where the bark was harvested, it takes 9 years for the tree to regrowe it. As it was a sunday, a lot of motorcyclists and some "sunday-drivers" were out on these small mountainroads as moving obstacles. It always took a little while to get around them, but nevertheless it was a lot of fun to to ride endless numbers of curves. We skipped Arcos de la Frontera, because of a running event that took place there , but at one point we got hungry. And if you get to a place in the middle of nowhere, where a lot of bikers hang out, you know it is the right place to stop. At Puerto Galiz Venta we experienced excellent local cousin. Climbing higher we rode into Parque Natural de Sierra de Grazalema, the countryside changed from dense forrestto rough and rugged rockformations. From Grazalema to Ronda it was only a short run to fininsh the day.
Česká verze níže. Czech version below. Twists, Turns & Stausees – A Perfect Riding Day Day three, and the adventure keeps getting better! We rolled out of Ronda in the morning, easing into the day with a few highway kilometers—just enough time to wake up properly and get into the groove. It was a bit cooler today, so some of us layered up before setting off. But the straight roads didn’t last long (thankfully!). Soon, we were back in our element, carving through gorgeous, twisty roads, leaning into every turn, and soaking up the Andalusian scenery. Our first stop? Setenil de las Bodegas, a town famous for its houses built right into the cliffs. A quick coffee break gave us a moment to admire the unique architecture before hopping back on the bikes. Not long after, we reached the first of three big reservoirs, or Stausees. But nature had left its mark—recent floods had washed away parts of the road. Nothing like a little detour to spice things up! After a bit of a navigation puzzle (and some teamwork), we found our way and enjoyed the stunning valley views from a scenic overlook. From there, we rode to Garganta del Chorro, home to the legendary Caminito del Rey, a wooden walkway clinging to the cliffs above a deep gorge. The bridge spanning the canyon was a sight to behold, and since our restaurant had a prime viewing spot, we got to enjoy the scenery with a side of delicious Spanish lunch. Post-lunch, the roads opened up, allowing us to pick up the pace and flow through the green landscape. No rush, just pure riding bliss. After a while, we had to make a stop for a very odd kind of traffic jam, about 200 sheep coming the opposite direction way, and filing up the road. A nice chance to see another part of the local culture up close Many, many turns later, we arrived at El Torcal, a surreal mountain landscape where the rocks look like they were stacked by a giant with way too much time on his hands. A short walk took us to the viewpoint, offering an epic panoramic view of the valley below. And, of course, we couldn’t leave without a group photo—which, after two failed attempts, we finally nailed on the third try. All in all, another fantastic riding day. Perfect roads, stunning views, a bit of adventure, and great company—what more could we ask for? On to the next one! ***** Zatáčky, Stausee a perfektní den na cestách Třetí den a dobrodružství je čím dál lepší! Ráno jsme vyrazili z Rondy a den jsme začali pár kilometry po dálnici – tak akorát na to, abychom se pořádně probudili a dostali se do rytmu. Ráno bylo trochu chladnější, takže někteří z nás si přidali jednu vrstvu navíc. Ale rovné silnice nám naštěstí dlouho nevydržely! Brzy jsme byli zpět v našem živlu, projížděli nádherné klikaté silnice, užívali si každou zatáčku a nasávali andaluskou krajinu. Naše první zastávka? Setenil de las Bodegas, město známé svými domy vestavěnými přímo do skály. Rychlá pauza na kávu nám dala chvilku k obdivování téhle jedinečné architektury, než jsme zase naskočili na motorky. O něco později jsme dorazili k prvnímu ze tří velkých přehradních jezer – Stausee. Příroda tu ale zanechala své stopy. Nedávné záplavy odplavily části silnice, takže jsme si museli poradit s malou objížďkou. Po menší navigační hádance (a troše týmové práce) jsme našli správnou cestu a mohli si užít nádherné výhledy do údolí. Odtud jsme pokračovali do Garganta del Chorro, kde se nachází legendární Caminito del Rey – dřevěná stezka přilepená ke skalám nad hlubokou soutěskou. Pohled na most, který se klene přes kaňon, byl úchvatný, a protože náš oběd byl v restauraci s dokonalým výhledem, mohli jsme si tu krásu vychutnat ještě o něco déle. Po obědě se silnice trochu rozšířily, takže jsme mohli zrychlit a vychutnat si plynulost jízdy. Žádný spěch, jen čistá radost z jízdy. Po nějaké době jsme však museli zastavit kvůli velmi neobvyklé dopravní zácpě – asi 200 ovcí nám šlo naproti a zaplnilo celou silnici. Skvělá příležitost vidět další část místní kultury zblízka. Mnoho a mnoho zatáček později jsme dorazili do El Torcalu, surrealistické horské oblasti, kde skály vypadají, jako by je naskládal obr s až příliš volného času. Krátká procházka nás dovedla k vyhlídce s úžasným panoramatickým výhledem do údolí. A samozřejmě jsme nemohli odjet bez společné fotky – na potřetí se nám ji konečně podařilo zachytit. Celkově vzato další fantastický den na motorce. Perfektní silnice, úžasné výhledy, trocha dobrodružství a skvělá parta – co víc si přát? Těšíme se na další jízdu!
Not the longest day, but probably one of the most exciting ones, as there was a secret involved. So that ment, that would have intense riding - and that's what it was. Getting out of Anteqera was easy and for about half an hour we travelled on more or less straight road towards Granada. but once, as we turned off the mainroad we figured out quickly, that this was only an easy ouverture to the conert of curves that followed. On some wider, but mostly small and very small roads we rode turn after turn, countless and different in radius and shape, accompanied by olive groves, interrupted by small villages with their white painted houses. After lunch we headed for a certain point on our map and.... Finally, after a short but intense day of riding we rode into Granada to finish right next to the Alhambra.
Lars left the night before to fly to Marakech this morning to get everything arranged for the upcoming week. So it had to be one of the group taking the lead and so Karel took the challenge to guide the group Granada and later on along the twisty roads of the Montes de Malaga. After reaching the waterfront at Bahia del Torre del Mar they took a break for a lunch at one of the beach restaurants. Markus, driving the van today, went ahead to arrange everything for a smooth change from motorcycling to the lift to the airport. Have a good flight to Morocco!
Yesterday, we made the transfer from Spain to Morocco. We covered the last stretch to Málaga, where we had some time to prepare for our flight before hopping over to Marrakech. A lovely dinner on the rooftop of our hotel was the perfect way to kick off our Moroccan adventure. This morning, we had to get used to our new bikes, as we’re riding different ones here in Morocco. There wasn’t much time to adjust, though, as we were immediately thrown into the lively traffic of Marrakech. Once you figure out the system, it actually works quite well—but at first, it’s a bit chaotic. Our route took us through Essaouira, which we reached by crossing the desert. The first part of the journey was mostly straight roads, but we passed through several towns and markets, so there was plenty to see. We even found some rough gravel that was supposed to be paved and ended up riding a bit faster than our side case could handle. After that, we decided it would be smarter to take a slightly longer but fully paved route instead. Lunch turned out to be slow food in the worst sense of the word—they really made us wait for it. But after lunch, things got a bit more interesting, as the wind suddenly picked up and stayed strong for the rest of the day. It was gusty enough that we were riding at an angle most of the time, which meant we had to be extra careful coming around corners and when passing oncoming traffic. To add to the excitement, we ran into some roadworks where they had basically removed the asphalt for several kilometers, leaving us with a long stretch of gravel. Our patience was rewarded with some much-needed curves in the mountains, finally breaking up the straight roads we’d been on all morning. The wind kept things tricky, but we still managed to enjoy the sweeping bends. For our last coffee stop, we pulled into a small town. I parked my bike a couple of meters behind a car and turned around to check on the group as they parked. Next thing I knew, I felt pressure on my leg and nearly got knocked over—the car had reversed into me. I’m guessing the driver had trouble finding first gear because he kept rolling back, pinning me even tighter against my bike before finally moving forward. Luckily, I was on a BMW GS with a boxer engine, which meant my leg only got pushed slightly while the engine casing took the hit. That probably saved me from a trip to the hospital. Thanks, BMW. To top it off, the coffee machine was broken at the place we stopped, so all in all, not the best break. We decided to just head to the hotel and have a relaxed evening there. Tomorrow, we’ll be riding parallel to the coast, heading south. Let’s see what the next day brings!
This morning, the wind had calmed down quite a bit, making for a much more comfortable start to the day. It didn’t take long, though, before a puff of blue smoke and the loss of rear brake function brought us to a stop. Turns out the rear brake had likely been dragging, which caused it to overheat, build up pressure, and eventually crack the brake caliper. The brake was done for, and fluid was leaking out. We swapped the bike with the tour guide’s, and just a few minutes later we were back on the road. Riding with only the front brake and engine braking meant taking it a bit easier, but it worked out fine for the rest of the day. A replacement bike will be waiting for us at the hotel this evening. From there, we rode along the coast for a while—nice, sleepy roads with better visibility and asphalt than yesterday, when we had more blind corners. It made for a smoother ride and a really fun cruise heading south. We stopped for lunch at a great traditional restaurant that only serves different types of tagine. The owner warned us that the beef would take 40 minutes to prepare. After 80 minutes, we were finally served, and it was worth the wait—everything fresh from their own garden or local farms, home-cooked in a family-run kitchen. Absolutely delicious. After that, we headed inland, into the mountains toward Paradise Valley. The planned route started off really fun—lots of curves, clean asphalt, and great riding. But eventually, the road turned to gravel, and then into a full off-road trail. So we had to turn around and continue along the coast instead. Not ready to call it a day, we found another loop with plenty of great twists and turns, which eventually led us along a beautiful river in the mountains with some truly stunning views. Leaving the valley behind, we made our way back to the coast and into Agadir. We weren’t the only bikers around—Morocco Desert Challenge is currently in town, and during the ride we were overtaken by some pretty wild-looking desert race machines. Tonight’s accommodation feels worlds apart from the rally vibes—our hotel is fancy and super comfortable, the perfect place to rest up and recharge for a big day with lots of kilometers ahead tomorrow.
Today was a big one – 355 kilometers on the schedule, which meant we got to soak in a whole lot of Moroccan landscape along the way. We started off in Agadir, working our way out of the city through some properly chaotic and sketchy traffic. It took a little patience and focus to navigate, but once we made it past the urban mess, the road opened up ahead of us. The first stretch was basically 200 kilometers of straight road. Not the most thrilling in terms of riding, but the scenery helped – the landscape kept shifting just enough to keep things interesting. From arid flats to rocky hills and the occasional patch of greenery, there was always something to catch your eye. Lunch today was more of a pit stop than a long break – just enough time to grab some good pizza and a few wraps and sandwiches to refuel, without eating up too much time. We still had a lot of ground to cover. After lunch, another hour or so of straight riding lay ahead – but we all knew what was coming next. We made a quick coffee stop before the good part, just to make sure everyone was awake and sharp. Then it was time to hit the twisties. And wow, what a stretch it was. About 70 kilometers of flowing curves, sweeping through the hills with barely any traffic in sight. The asphalt was clean, the grip was good, and the views? Absolutely stunning. It was the perfect section to let everyone ride at their own pace, spread out a bit, and just enjoy. We agreed to meet again at the next big roundabout about 60 kilometers down the road. There were a few videos taken along the way, and we’re pretty sure there were some massive grins hiding behind those visors. It was one of those rides that just sticks with you – pure joy on two wheels. When we finally rolled into Ouarzazate, the first stop was the pool and a well-earned beer. Now it’s time to rest up – early start tomorrow for our last day on the road.
Already the last day – hard to believe how fast it went. But what a day it turned out to be. While yesterday kicked off with endless straight roads, today was pretty much the exact opposite. Since a few people in the group had earlier flights, we set off at 7 in the morning to make sure we still had time to visit Ait Ben Haddou, wander around, and explore its narrow, winding streets up close. Once we got there, some of us grabbed a morning coffee at one of the cafés, while others headed straight into the old streets, trying to find the way up to the rooftop bar and take in the view from above. It's a fascinating historical site – a real maze to walk through, and absolutely worth the effort. After the visit, we continued our journey, enjoying plenty more curves. The first stretch took us through a narrow road with tight corners weaving through small villages and valleys. The second half opened up onto a wider main road, the one leading us toward Marrakech. The turns here flowed beautifully, wide sweepers on smooth, perfect asphalt – pure riding pleasure. Traffic was light the whole way, which made it even better. We had lunch out in the sunshine, overlooking the valley – a peaceful, relaxed final lunch as a group. Once we arrived in Marrakech, we dropped off part of the group directly at the airport, while the rest of us headed back to the hotel. There, we sat together on the rooftop with a drink in hand, chatting about the tour and trying to come up with a plan for the evening. As plans tend to do, it changed a few times, but in the end we had a lovely dinner on the rooftop and raised a glass to a successful and safe ride. It’s been a great trip for everyone, and truly a pleasure to be a part of it.