CCG2501 From Greece to Croatia

The first day of riding. As on every tour, the guests could hardly wait to get on their bikes and finally set off. After a quick breakfast at the hotel and the morning briefing, we set off. First of all, we had to battle our way through Athens' rush hour traffic. To escape the hustle and bustle of the capital as quickly as possible, we took the highway and drove out onto the Isthmus of Corinth. The completion of the Corinth Canal in the late 19th century turned the Peloponnese from a peninsula into an island. We take a few photos along the canal and then drive down to the coast where we stop for lunch in a picturesque fishing village. The road then becomes increasingly winding and we wind our way along the coast to the main attraction of the day: the famous amphitheater of Epidaurus. After checking out the excellent acoustics in the theater, we continue towards Nafplion to our hotel for today. The hotel is beautifully situated high above the city and the view of the surrounding area from the pool is simply breathtaking. What a first day! It can go on like this.

The second day of our trip took us from Nafplio to Kalamata, but of course the part in between was the exciting bit. It started off with breakfast in our hotel, which was a little chaotic but very nice food. This was very welcome as our day would be long and with lots of turns, so it was good that we got a nice breakfast to start our day. From here we got on our bikes and got on the way. Directly after leaving the hotel, the roads were very interesting. These roads are not used much, and Mother Nature is trying to regain the space, by having long-stem grasses grow partially over the road and some bushes stretching their arms across the road. After this, after leaving this narrow road, it was time for one of the highlights of this trip, the coastal road. This road feels like it was put there just for motorcycle riders, the asphalt is in great condition, it curves along the mountainside, and the views over the water are just stunning. Today it felt like it wasn’t just made for motorcycles, but like it was made just for us. We have barely seen any other vehicles on all of the great roads that we were driving today, a real privilege. I'm not sure how the Edelweiss office does it, but it is impressive that they organise that the roads are only for our guests. Besides sweeping turns along the coast, we also had some narrow twisty roads through the mountains today. Some long and open turns, some very tight hairpins, up and down the hill. Today we really had a little bit of everything and boy was it fun. During the coffee stop, Russel couldn’t resist getting into the ocean. He didn’t go swimming just yet, but I have a feeling he won’t be able to resist for the whole trip. In fact, I am surprised he didn’t go swimming during the lunch break, because there are very few places that would offer a nicer view whilst swimming than the bay where we stopped for lunch. After lunch, our direction was towards the ancient capital of Sparta, Sparti (yes, they were indeed known for their creative naming skills). Here we had our last stop of the day at a cafe overlooking the modern town of Sparti and a castle to the side. The town lies in a valley, so since we were a little higher up, we really got a chance to take it all in. I am not sure if I liked the first, the middle, or the part after Sparti the most regarding the riding. All of it was just stunning in its own way and it was just an absolute blast to ride here. Weather, company, roads, and the lack of traffic. It couldn’t have been any better.

Let the games begin.... This could be the theme for today, as our journey takes us to ancient Olympia, one of the largest and most important archaeological sites in Greece. First, we head north from Kalamata, passing the town of Magalopoli. We quickly head up into the mountains, where we again encounter the smallest of roads and hundreds of bends. The first highlight of the day is a small hidden church on the side of the road, which looks rather inconspicuous from the outside. Inside, however, there is a surprise: a cave with stalactites on the ceiling, into which the church is integrated. The road then winds its way further and further into the mountains and shortly before midday we reach a hydroelectric power museum that illustrates the importance of water in earlier times. We then drive up to the village of Langadia where we have lunch in a restaurant with spectacular views. Unfortunately, the road is closed further on due to falling rocks and so we have to take a detour of a few kilometers to reach our destination, Olympia. Once all the athletes have chosen their disciplines, the Edelweiss Olympics can begin. We end the evening on the hotel terrace in the light of the setting sun with an excellent meal. The last heroic deeds are discussed once again and so another day on our journey comes to an end. Tomorrow we continue our journey and visit the next highlight of antiquity.

Day four of our trip took us from the ancient grounds of Olympia to the mystic heights of Delphi. Another great day, packed with variety—and probably one of the most balanced ones so far in terms of riding, scenery, and story. We kicked things off with a relaxed breakfast at the hotel—simple, fresh, and just what you need before a full day on the bike. Then it was time for our morning briefing in the lobby. The plan? A mix of everything: high-tech bridges, medieval hilltop castles, and ancient ruins tucked into the mountains. Once we left Olympia, we rode through the rural heart of the Peloponnese. Not much traffic out here, but plenty to see. Shepherds moving flocks across the road, farmers out in the fields, and—my personal highlight—Claus spotting a guy in a milk truck right outside a dairy plant. It was one of those "real Greece" moments. The roads through here were fun too: smooth, twisty, but not too technical. Just the kind of riding that makes you smile inside your helmet. Eventually, we reached the Rio–Antirrio Bridge—one of those wow-moments. A massive suspension bridge with four towers, connecting the peninsula to the mainland. We stopped right at the base for a photo session and even got some drone shots in. Definitely one of those iconic places where you want to pause and take it all in. After crossing, we headed uphill to check out a medieval fortress with sweeping views over the coastline. A short stop, but totally worth it. Unfortunately, we couldn’t hang around too long—Tom had something special waiting for us. Lunch today? A beach picnic. Nothing too heavy, just good food in the right setting. And yes, the real reason we did it at the beach was so Russle could finally jump into the sea. He didn’t hesitate for a second. The rest of us enjoyed the breeze, the view, and the chance to just slow down a bit before getting back on the bikes. What came next was one of the top riding segments of the trip so far: a coastal road that winds its way along the cliffs. Wide turns, great visibility, and smooth tarmac—the kind of road that lets you settle into the flow without worrying about what’s around the corner. Just you, the road, and the sea beside you. We couldn’t resist one more stop before Delphi. A small bay, quiet and peaceful, where we grabbed some ice cream and chatted with a few American tourists. A perfect little break before wrapping up the day. Once we arrived at the hotel in Delphi, we had just enough time to get changed before heading out to the famous archaeological site. First a visit to the museum, then a walk up to the Temple of Apollo—the place where the Pythia once delivered the words of the gods. And yes, we finally found out what a shivering goat has to do with all of it. (If you know, you know.) All in all, it was a day where the old and new came together beautifully. From smooth throttle pulls in the morning to standing among ancient stones by sunset—Olympia to Delphi had it all.

Our route today takes us first to the Pindus Mountains high above Delphi, where we can look back over the Gulf of Corinth one last time. From now on, we drive further and further north inland on the Greek mainland. Greece is certainly not the first address when you think of winter sports but the Pindus Mountains are over 2500 m high in places and even skiing is possible here in winter. The views that open up again and again are simply stunning. Between the mountains there are always wide, flat plains where a lot of agriculture and farming is carried out. It is therefore not surprising that local products are offered directly from the producers on both sides of the road. Once we are back in the lowlands, we continue along the E65 via Lamia for quite a long time. Unfortunately, just after the Plastira reservoir, the road was washed away by heavy storms some time ago and so we have to avoid or skip this highlight. We then continue north through the fertile plain of the central Greek region. Here you can experience the Greek landscape and culture up close. From Domokos we continue northwards to Pyli, the transition region to the Meteora monasteries. Of course, we take a look at the famous stone bridge of Pyli and enjoy another short break. For a long time, the 15th century bridge was the only connection from the Thessalian plain to the villages of Pindos and Epirus. Afterwards, it is only a stone's throw to Meteora, the impressive monasteries perched on high sandstone cliffs. Perfect for an exploratory tour and to enjoy the sunset at the monasteries.

Today was supposed to be the day of holy moly, what a gorgeous view of the area and of the holy monasteries. It turned out to be more of a holy smokes, where did the road go?, as we ran into some very thick fog during our rest day ride. It already started with us running into two closed roads, which in hindsight might have been a sign, and it evolved into us hitting such thick fog after about 45 minutes that the best thing for us was to turn around and head back. Even though we ran into the fog, the road we did before—and then again on the way back—was very nice. So still a good, although much shorter, ride. The main reason we are here in Meteora is of course the monasteries, so we took some time to take a look at those. We first stopped on the side of the road to take a look at some of the caves in the rock face—basically how the monasteries here started. We could even marvel at some people climbing the rocks. They did it with modern safety equipment, but the principle stays the same as back in the days when people first took refuge on and in the rocks in this area. The biggest monastery you can visit here is the Monastery of Varlaam. Here we could marvel at this complex built on top of the rocks—really something magnificent to first look at from afar and then wander through. The building and the artwork are absolutely beautiful. And besides getting yelled at when you forget to take your hat off, it’s a very peaceful place. From here we visited another one of the monasteries, where we could marvel at the sheer amount of buses dropping people off. It felt like every three minutes a new bus showed up full of people. Good thing you can weave around and park right up front with motorcycles. A small lunch after this, and then time to relax in the afternoon and make use of the rest day. Most of us will meet later today for dinner, while some are taking the chance to explore the area and the restaurants on their own.

Today's route from Meteora to Gjirokastra should be around 255 km (158 miles) long. After visiting the monasteries of Meteora yesterday and driving through a very busy area, today it was time to escape into the solitude of the mountains. After a coffee break in Metsovo, we headed into the mountains. The route leads through the northern foothills of the Pindos Mountains and the Zagória region, through some of the typical mountain villages that hang on the mountains like paintings. The area is famous for its many small bridges and so of course we have to see one of the most beautiful. The Kalogeriko Bridge or Plakidas Bridge is a three-span bridge that was built in 1814. It is located near the villages of Kipi and Koukouli in the center of Zagoria and is one of the few three-string bridges in the area. Our ladies were very enthusiastic and so we took photos from all angles and positions. But we couldn't stay forever, because we were starting to get hungry... The next surprise came 20 minutes later: our chef Lars was standing by the roadside with a delicious picnic and was already waiting for the hungry riders. What could be better than an Edelweiss picnic in the middle of nowhere? Then it was off to the Vikos Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world. After visiting the region, we cross a border for the first time on this trip. We drove from Greece to Albania at the “Pogoni” crossing. Everything went smoothly and after a few minutes we were able to rush towards our destination on Albanian roads. The journey ends in Gjirokastra, the “Stone City”, which is known for its Ottoman houses and impressive castle. After visiting the castle, we wanted to head straight to the hotel. However, this was not as easy as it looked at first glance, as the many narrow streets often end in a garage entrance or on a terrace. But we finally managed to find our way to the hotel and ended the day by the pool or at the bar.

Today we headed north from the stone city of Gjirokastra on small roads. Towards Berat, also known as “the city of 1000 windows”. Then we had to cross the border from Albania to North Macedonia. At the end of a long day, we were finally glad that everyone was back at the hotel. Tomorrow we continue our journey, back to Albania. One thing is for sure: everyone will remember this day.

Mountainous and rugged, that's how you would describe eastern Albania. After setting off from Lake Ohrid in the morning and quickly escaping the rush hour traffic in the city of the same name, we set off into the mountains. First we head towards the border town of Debar and then further and further north. Narrow, winding roads await us on the Albanian side. The roads lead us into one of the most remote corners of Albania. We climb higher and higher on narrow, winding roads. Unfortunately, they are not in great condition and we have to be careful not to hit a pothole on every bend or slip away on sand and rubble, but the weather also plays along and the views combined with the colors are simply breathtaking. Afterwards, the “highway drivers” in the group enjoy a well-maintained route down to Shkodra. Only the last few kilometers before the city do we have to shift down a gear in the evening traffic and adapt to the long queue of cars to finally reach the hotel in the fifth largest city in the country.

From Shkodra, we headed to the nearest border to Montenegro, in the morning. Another country on our tour. Shortly after the border, we drove along single-lane roads that looked more like donkey tracks than roads. Our route took us along the shores of Lake Skutari. The largest lake in southern Europe. The road, often only one lane, first runs far above the lake before leisurely descending towards the shore. We then headed to the Adriatic coast and Budva, where we stopped for lunch in a biker bar. After that we continued towards Podgorica, where we only stopped to refuel our bikes. Too much traffic and hustle and bustle in the capital of Montenegro. The weather had calmed down in the meantime and we were able to take off the rain gear that we had had to put on in the morning. Then came the best part of the day. Through a narrow valley, the road surrounded by high mountains to the right and left and through countless tunnels. A very special experience that everyone enjoyed once again just before the end of today's stage. Tomorrow is our second rest day and then we'll see whether it really stays that way or whether we'll get back in the saddle and go for a ride...

Montenegro is a small and very mountainous country and even today these mountains are still wild and inaccessible. One of the highest and wildest areas is the Durmitor range in the north-west of the country, a high alpine mountain world that was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980. And that's exactly where we're heading today. So no rest day. At least for 3 riders, the rest day was only on paper. The other group members wanted to relax and take it easy today. Sauna, swimming pool and all other kind of activities were on their schedule for today. It didn't look like it at breakfast - it was raining cats and dogs - but it cleared up just in time for the start of today's tour. The sun peeked out between the clouds and so we set off. Roads that zigzag wildly between these mountains and also open up some of the deep gorges for which the region is famous. And of course we also included a loop in Durmitor National Park. We simply couldn't miss out on this spectacle. The pictures speak for themselves:

Wir brechen heute zum letzten Fahrtag auf und der hatte noch einmal viele Highlights zu bieten. Zunächst ging es von Kolasin Richtung Podgorica durch die schon bekannte Schlucht, mit ihren unzähligen Tunnels. Noch einmal konnten wir die Strecke entlang des Morača, die uns schon von der Hinfahrt nach Kolasin bekannt war, geniessen. Genau das Richtige zum warmwerden. Kurz darauf dann ein wenig Verkehr um die Hauptstadt herum, die wir aber bald hinter uns lassen konnten. Nach ein paar km auf der Hauptstrasse sind wir dann in Richtung Lovcen Nationalpark abgebogen. Wunderschöne kleine Strassen und die Landschaft einfach unbeschreiblich. Immer wieder geben die Bäume den Blick auf die umliegenden schwarzen Berge, die Montenegro seinen Namen gegeben hat, frei. Es gibt hier auch noch Wölfe und Bären, aber keins der scheuen Tiere kreuzte unseren Weg. Nachdem wir den Park durchquert hatten, war es dann plötzlich soweit: Nach einer letzten Kurve lag sie plötzlich vor uns. Die berühmte Bucht von Kotor und die gleichnamige Stadt. Welch ein Anblick! Wir schrauben uns aus etwa 900m oberhalb der Stadt langsam durch 25 Spitzkehren nach unten. Natürlich halten wir zwischendurch immer wieder an um Bilder zu machen. Nach dem Mittagessen unten am Wasser, wo wir den Booten die in aller Ruhe übers Wasser schippern zuschauen, fahren wir dann zur Grenze nach Kroatien. Unser letzter Grenzübertritt auf unserer Reise. Auf dem Weg nach Dubrovnik fahren wir ein letztes Mal eine enge Bergstrasse hinauf, um uns die berühmte Altstadt von oben anzuschauen. Leider bleibt uns heute keine Zeit um uns in Getümmel unten in der Stadt zu stürzen. Beim Hotel wartet unser Kollege Oliver bereits mit einer kühlen Erfrischung auf uns. Leider ging auch diese Tour wieder einmal viel zu schnell vorbei. Noch ein letztes Abendessen an der Adria und dann gehts für die meisten unserer Gäste am frühen Morgen zurück nach Hause. Die Tour war ein Abenteuer und ein ganz besonderes Erlebnis an das wir sicher alle noch lange zurückdenken werden. Vielen Dank, dass wir euch begleiten durften und wir hoffen euch irgendwann mal wiederzusehen. Eure Tourguides Lars, Oliver und Tom