Best of Southern France - RNN2501
Some of us already arrived yesterday to stunning Vence featuring lovely 28C (76F) and the rest is assembling today. The excitement before the tour is palatable. Most of the riders have been on tour with us before, so they know what to expect. But we also have a couple of first-timers for who everything is excitably new. At 5:00pm we all met for the obligatory welcome briefing. A presentation that is giving an insight into the tour, what to expect and how to behave in different scenarios. And then the moment has come everybody is receiving the keys to their motorcycle. It feels a bit like Christmas morning when you are young and you are allowed to unwrap your presents. But behold these presents are only on loan! ;) Nevertheless, time to play a little with the new toys, checking out the digital menu and setting everything up to your liking. After that, we all joined together in the hotel restaurant for dinner and to get to know each other a little better. Franziska and the East Coast lads had already been on tour together last year, so naturally, some stories and moment from the Alps Deluxe Tour were relived. Soon we had a lively conversation going across the whole table and everybody was looking forward to the first ride tomorrow!
From St. Paul de Vence to Forcalquier – Curves, Canyons, and Lavender Fields Even in the morning, the south of France welcomed us with astonishing warmth – 25 degrees Celsius announced that this was going to be another sweaty day. Nevertheless, everyone's anticipation was palpable as we left our hotel in St. Paul de Vence and revved up the bikes. The first few kilometers over the Col de Vence were perfect for getting into the rhythm of the day: sweeping curves, narrow roads, and the scent of Provence in the air. After a quick technical check at the Gorge du Loup – better safe than sorry – we continued northwest. The route there: a feast for curve lovers. Switchbacks, long sweepers, and narrow mountain roads alternated, making the time fly by. After about two hours, we rolled to our first well-deserved coffee break. A quick rest, cold drinks – and on we went. Our lunch stop was very close to the breathtaking Verdon Gorge, where we refueled with salads, burgers, and sandwiches in a nice little restaurant. We had already passed the first taste of the day's highlight, the "Gorges de Verdon." The Grand Canyon of Europe, as the Verdon Gorge is often called, showed itself at its most spectacular. Steep rock faces, plunging up to 400 meters into the depths, accompanied us on a seemingly endless series of curves. Full concentration was required here – not only because of the sometimes narrow roads, but also because the view into the depths was simply overwhelming. Anyone with a fear of heights should avoid looking too far over the edge of the road. A photo stop at the mouth of the Verdon River into the turquoise Lac de Sainte-Croix rounded off this section. Then it was only a short distance to our destination for the day: Forcalquier. A charming little town with medieval roots, surrounded by blooming lavender fields that glowed almost surreal in the afternoon sun. Our accommodation, the Hotel Charembeau, is located a little way off the beaten track on a hill – quiet, family-run, and with a pool that has become a place of longing. After a long day in the saddle, where every shady spot was a rarity, the cool water was a blessing. A day full of impressions, full of roads that won't soon be forgotten – and the beginning of a journey that will hold many more such moments.
The sun greeted us already bright and warm this morning. We had a lovely joined breakfast on the terrace, before we got ready for the day. Morning Briefing happened at a shady spot in the garden and off we went into the french countryside. Our route took us right out of town on a little country road winding its way through the surrounding hills. The first coffee stop was Roussillon, a picturesque town dominated by red Ochre Cliffs and its former quarry is attracting many visitors each year. From here, we went westwards along a gorge road winding in and out through rocky tunnels to the Sénanque Abbey, a 12-century monastery, which is iconic for the region. A medieval display of importance amidst colourful lavender fields. No wonder the region is popular with motorcyclists and bicyclists alike. So it was not a surprise when we reached our lunch spot in Sault to see plenty of 2 wheelers on the local square and everyone having a rest from the relentless midday heat. We enjoyed the view into the valley and a little bit of people watching while having a fresh light lunch. The afternoon continued to be a pleasure to ride, empty backcountry roads, winding through an angulated and sometimes mountainous countryside. We went through the Les Gorges de la Nesque, which was a stunning display of limestone geology. Due to the heat and a temporarily stuck brake caliper on one of the bikes, the group decided to call it a day and we took the shortest road into Avignon. What an adventures day we had!
What an eventful day! We left Avignon again in the morning – and as we set off, it became clear to us: one night is far too short to truly explore this fascinating city with its alleys, squares, and the venerable Papal Palace. Avignon has a very special atmosphere that immediately captivated us. We first followed the banks of the Rhône. The gentle shimmer of the river accompanied us for miles and gave us magnificent views of vast plains before we ventured back into the mountains. The landscape changed noticeably: from the wide riverside paths into the green, sometimes wild hills, and finally onto narrow, winding mountain roads. These roads led us through dreamy and remote villages that felt like little time capsules. Stone houses, winding alleys, and colorful flowers in the windows made every drive a little highlight. It was as if every bend offered us a new postcard image!
Today we had a rest day in our schedule for La Marlene. However, very little rest was taken. Richard, Larry and Steven joined Franzi for a shorter ride through the local gorges, valleys and over the Viaduc du Millau, the currently tallest bridge in the world reaching 343m (1125ft) above ground. But the riders also had a refreshing plunge at the end of the riding day. Mitch, Caroline, Eric, Gina and Henning went on a fantastic canoe adventure on the river Tarn through the Tarn gorge. Not a bad choice with temperatures soaring to 38C (100F). Ed decided to have a proper rest in the hotel this morning. Nevertheless, he joined a small group to the neighboring village a little later for a short visit. Searching for the local water mill and it's unusual gift shop. A day very well spend! So what's for dinner now? ;)
A heat battle of the highest order! What an unforgettable day on two wheels! The thermometer climbed mercilessly to 41 degrees Celsius in the shade – a true heat battle that demanded everything from us. But that's precisely what made the day an adventure we won't soon forget. The route took us through spectacular landscapes: Along the Tarn, we wound our way through wildly romantic gorges, past steep cliffs and turquoise-green waters sparkling in the sunlight. We continued into the Ardèche, where winding roads wound like a ribbon through jagged limestone formations and quaint villages. Finally, we followed the majestic Rhône, whose wide valley provided a breathtaking backdrop. The motorcycle routes were a dream: endless curves, perfect ribbons of asphalt winding through the landscape, and panoramic views that took your breath away. Despite the scorching heat, it was often more bearable to keep the visor closed while riding than to let the hot wind blow in our faces – a curious but effective remedy for the oven effect. Our destination: Loriol-sur-Drôme. There, the long-awaited hotel pool awaited us – a true oasis after this hot ride. Part of the group decided to brave the heat and ride the entire, lovingly planned route, while the other part took a shortcut. Nevertheless, we all reached today's destination at latest around 4:00 p.m. A day full of magnificent landscapes, fantastic motorcycle roads, and unforgettable impressions – exactly what you imagine a perfect day of riding to be...apart from the heat ;-) Lm
Another hot day was predicted, so we decided to beat some of the heat and started a bit earlier today. So our morning took us into the Vercors mountains, also known as the French dolomites. Plenty of sweepers and the occasional switchback joined our way. The morning air was cool and the sun already up and bright. First stop was the Col de la Bataille (1313m / 4307ft) with stunning views on both sides of the ridge, followed by the Col de la Machine where we had our morning coffee stop. From here we went straight onto the Combe Laval a impressive balcony road carved out of the rocks by manual labor in the late 19th century. We finished our exploration of the Vercors with the Gorges de la Bourne another road constructed into the hard surface leaving the river just below on your right. After that we had to face the heat and bustling streets of the outskirts of Grenoble. We had light lunch in a local bakery and then gained some altitude again, up to the Chatreuse Mountains, nestled between Grenoble and Chambery. Another great ride, this time we saw a bit more forest and quaint little villages. The area is in winter also a known ski resort and in summer it is poplar with cyclists and hikers. Winding our way back onto the plains we entered parts of Chambery, before we could get into the surrounding hills and to our lovely hotel. It was a welcoming surprise that Henning awaited us with cold drinks which made swapping the road stories so much more enjoyable. After that we all went from there to the rooms and then straight to the pool. No better way to stay cool at these temperatures.
Across the Queens of the Alpine Passes After a brief delay in the morning – caused by an unplanned, but fortunately quick, pit stop at BMW – we started our day full of anticipation. We left Chambéry in the usual bright sunshine and with a clear view of the majestic peaks of the French Alps. Perfect! After passing through the Arc Valley, the route soon took us up above the 1,000-meter mark – and with every meter of elevation, the air cooled noticeably. On average, the thermometer showed about 10 degrees cooler than on the sweltering days before, which made our ride a true treat. Full of anticipation, we immersed ourselves in the high alpine world of France. The Col du Télégraphe was our first highlight, followed by the legendary Col du Galibier, whose summit took us up to 2,670 meters and offered a panorama that takes everyone's breath away. Shortly after, the Col d'Izoard followed, where we found ourselves at 2,360 meters amidst a bizarre rock massif – a feeling of freedom spread that you probably only experience on a motorcycle! A planned lunch stop was quickly turned into an early coffee and cake break due to the restaurant's lack of supplies. The cake buffet – top-notch!!! This stage was without a doubt a highlight! The excitement about this crowning stage was evident on every face, and the grins under the helmets didn't fade until we reached the finish. We finally reached our cozy Hotel La Ferme in Avieux. Here, we reflected on the day over a well-deserved, excellent dinner and many stories about epic passes before falling into our beds, tired but happy. To be continued… We still have two more days of riding left ;-)
The day couldn't have started any better. Sunshine, perfect riding temperatures and a fantastic route laid out in front of us. We all jumped eager on our bikes in the morning. The first leg took us to the Col de Vars (2108m) with a fantastic view into the valley and beyond. A little after that we meant to take the road up to the Colle della Maddalena, which was unfortunately closed due to a rockfall earlier. So instead we did an early coffee stop on the side of the road to give Franziska a chance to reroute today's stage. It was quickly clear that the Col de la Bonnette is an absolute highlight what can't be missed. So the plan was quickly established to approach it from the other side, which meant instead of doing a loop we would right in and the same way out. And the pass did not disappoint! The roads and views were absolute stunning. You were torn between the urge to stop and taking some photos and the desire to just keep on riding the great sweepers. No wonder everybody wants to ride Europe's second highest asphalted road! From here we continued further up to the Italian border and the Col de la Lombarde and we stepped on Italian soil for a short time. More photos were taken before we went down and met Henning with a small lunch at a lovely picnic location directly at a mountain river. Well rested, we went back towards the Col de la Bonnette encountering both local petrol stations closed, which meant the Multistrada wouldn't make it back oback over the pass. So Halfway we had to siphon petrol from one of the fuller bikes. Eric, channeled his inner McGyver and devised a little tool with a plastic bottle and chewing gum and in a great team effort we put the Ducati back on the road. All in all we had an eventful day, nobody will forget that easily and especially not our birthday boy Larry, who nearly followed the wrong riders home after we changed into our rain gear. ;)
Like all beautiful things in life, this unforgettable tour also comes to an end. On the tenth and final day of riding, our route took us from Barcelonnette back to Vence. Right at the beginning, another breathtaking highlight awaited us: the Col de la Cayolle at 2,360 meters. Afterwards, we rolled along winding roads along the Var and once again enjoyed the wild beauty of the French Alps. The days had been quite challenging, so one group decided to take the direct route back to the starting hotel to end the day in a relaxed manner. Only Steve and Henning wanted to give it one last go and tackled the final, challenging section: the climb to the Madone d'Utelle. This pilgrimage church, perched high above the Vésubie Valley, was built in the 9th century as a token of gratitude by Genoese sailors who, after a severe storm at sea, had vowed to dedicate a chapel to the Virgin Mary if they ever reached solid ground again. Since then, this mystical place has attracted pilgrims and adventurers alike – a perfect final highlight of our trip. In the evening, we all gathered for a final dinner to relive the experiences of the past few days over good food and plenty of stories. As with every successful tour, we crowned the evening with our little "Holy Wrench" ceremony: Each participant received their individual tour name as a very personal final memento of this trip. Over a final drink, we sat together for a while, laughed, toasted our time together at the bar – and made initial plans for when and where we might one day continue this story. Some will now spend a few more days in Europe. Others will fly back home tomorrow. We wish everyone a safe journey home! Perhaps we'll meet again on some road in the world! Your tour guides Franzi & Henning