Adventure Mongolia - AMO2501
We warmly welcome our guests from Austria, Canada, India, the United Arab Emirates, and the United States of America. We were able to get our first impressions as we approached Chinggis Kahn Airport in Ulaan Baatar. One comment was, “Nobody lives there,” that's Mongolia. But first, we head to the capital, “UB City,” Ulaan Baatar, where half of the approximately 3.5 million inhabitants of this large country live. After check-in, we attend the welcome briefing, which provides an initial introduction to the program for the coming days, as well as general information and safety instructions. This is followed by the welcome dinner, featuring the first à la carte delicacies typical of the country. But now it's time to recover from the journey. Good night and see you tomorrow.
After picking up the motorcycles, we leave the city on a side road, but then we have to “unfortunately” return to the planned route via our first off-road passage. Slowly, the buildings become fewer and fewer, and the electricity pylons also become less and less frequent. After a good hour, the city and its outskirts are behind us and the seemingly endless expanses of the Mongolian steppe landscape open up before us. Here and there, we see a ger, the round tent of the Mongolian nomads, who still make up about 30% of the population. After passing several herds of cows, goats, sheep, and horses, we reach our prearranged lunch stop. After a delicious lunch, we have a good half hour of free riding time. We immediately explore the surrounding hills, which are quite rocky due to erosion at the summit. After that, it's only a short distance to our ger camp. As we arrive quite early, as planned, we still have a good hour and a half after checking in to go dune surfing in the “Mini Gobi.” This was the absolute highlight for the dune riders. Wolfgang, who was in the dunes for the first time, found it incredible after some initial problems at the beginning, but Hersham from the United Arab Emirates also had his first experience here, which is amazing since he has dunes right on his doorstep. Weather permitting, we will head back to the dunes tomorrow, right after breakfast and before the others wake up, to reinforce what we practiced today.
We decided not to go dune riding in the morning due to rain during the night, as driving in wet and therefore hard sand is by no means as much fun. Instead, we head into the hilly landscape behind our accommodation. Our journey then takes us to Karakorum, the capital during the time of Genghis Khan and his successors. However, as it was destroyed by the Chinese Ming Dynasty around 200 years after its foundation and the remains were used by Buddhist monks to build a huge monastery, nothing of it remains to be seen today. Nevertheless, the outer wall with its 108 stupas is impressive. The interior of the complex, once inhabited by up to 1,500 monks, was destroyed by Chinese units around 1930, leaving only three of the original 62 temples standing. Afterwards, we visit one of the four stone turtles from the same period, which, according to legend, carry the world. We spend our lunch break in a hilly area and after eating we explore the rather high hills. Here at this altitude, even more views open up onto the already vast landscape. We cover the last stretch to our lodge in Tenkhser Hot Springs on a beautiful natural road before relaxing in the warm spring pools after dinner. What a day.
Today, right after breakfast, we head back through the water crossing and then to a Mongolian nomadic family. Here we learn how these people obtain and process their staple foods. Of course, we taste airag, fermented mare's milk, as well as yogurt and butter made from yaks. Then we return to the main road towards Tsetzerleg on the natural road, which has been softened by overnight rain. On the way to our lunch, we have to put on our rain gear because we have to pass through the tail end of a thunderstorm. No sooner are we under the roof of the restaurant than a thunderstorm with hail passes over us. An hour later, however, we see the sun again and continue on to the impressive Chuulut Gorge. We continue in our rain gear, as we expect more thunderstorms and rain showers. This was definitely the right decision, because about 40 km before reaching our destination, it starts raining again. Nevertheless, we enjoy the ride as a rainbow accompanies us in the low afternoon sun. Today we covered the longest distance with the longest travel time, so we have well earned the Beer boat after our arrival.
Today takes us back through vast steppe landscapes. The further west we travel, the fewer gers/yurts and people we see. Finally, we reach Tosontsengel, the coldest city in Mongolia in winter with temperatures dropping to minus 53 degrees Celsius. Here we take a short coffee break before driving to Telmen Nuur (lake) for lunch. As today's theme is nomadic life, we will also spend the night in a tent camp. Before sunset, we explore the surrounding hills. Afterwards, we warm ourselves by the campfire and admire the clear starry sky. Some participants are seeing the elegance of this night sky for the first time. We lie down to sleep under the arch of the Milky Way. What a night.
Today we have a short day of driving ahead of us. This is less due to the distance than to the sights. When we leave our camp, we are still in the green steppe. But after a few kilometers, it becomes increasingly dry and the surroundings change more and more to sandy colors. We are now crossing a semi-desert. After about 135 kilometers, we see a single house. By the time we reach our camp for the night at Lake Chjagaris, shortly after noon, we have covered 230 kilometers and, apart from a few gers and our camp, have only spotted a gas station, which we will not pass until tomorrow. This gives us enough time to relax and enjoy tomorrow. Because it will be a good day.
We leave our camp at Lake Chjargas and head to the gas station next door. Then we dive back into the desert. When we take a break, a Mongolian nomad joins us to say hello. After about 135 kilometers, we finally reach the city of Ulaangom, where we have the opportunity to purchase additional supplies for the rest of our journey at a small supermarket. Our chef is waiting for us at a small stream for lunch before we set off for Üüreg Nuur. This small lake near the Russian border lies behind a mountain range. The drive up into the mountains fascinates us. As the first part of the road is still flat, we have a choice of lanes over a width of several hundred meters. The higher we climb, the narrower the track becomes, eventually ending in a short single-lane descent after passing the pass summit. Once we have passed this, we have a magnificent view of the lake. In the evening, we head to the shore, where our chef juggles swords in the sunset. Our campfire warms us and provides light, so we sit here for a while and enjoy the vastness and silence far away from the hustle and bustle of the cities.
The sun is shining again and today we will complete our longest off-road route. We first ride west along the lake, then cross a mountainous landscape on sandy, rocky dirt roads. When the terrain flattens out again, it is no longer possible to estimate distances, but ahead of us lie at least 80 kilometers of rocky desert with several fords in the meltwater-fed rivers. The water level is high, and we have to find suitable places to cross. In this rocky expanse, we now also have a flat tire. Our support vehicle with Buck is not far away. After arriving, Buck gets to work, and we have our lunch in the shade of the vehicle. Thanks to Buck, the damage is quickly repaired, and we cross more fords until our route leads us back into the mountains. We spend tonight in Ölgii, where our dinner awaits us once again in the great outdoors, not far from the riverbank. Exhausting but unforgettable!
Our last day of riding takes us from Ölgii directly to Khovd. The journey leads through the mountains, while the temperature slowly but steadily rises. During the morning briefing, some ask about the highlight of the day, as everyone still wants to see eagles. Bernie then points out their habitat in the sky, which causes some disappointment on one or two faces. When Temu turns off the road, reverses, and then drives back into the steppe, some are confused and wonder what is happening. When we follow a nomad on his motorcycle to his yurt, everyone is surprised. Once there, we enjoy the family's hospitality and are even allowed to hold an eagle on our arms. The joy is written all over the guests' faces. On the last leg of the journey, we make a short stop at the shore of a lake before driving down into the valley to Khovd. We hand over the motorcycles, which are immediately loaded onto a truck, and make our way to the roof terrace of our hotel. The surprise was a success!
This morning we have to get up a little earlier because we want to return to UB City as early as possible. After arriving, we drive to lunch in vans, where we are also treated to a performance of original Mongolian music with throat singing. Now we return to the world's largest equestrian statue, 30 meters high, 250 tons of stainless steel on top of a 10-meter-high building that houses a museum. “Genghis Khan Monument” A guide explains the most important facts about Genghis Khan and his successors and his empire until it was taken over by the Chinese Ming Dynasty. We then spend the rest of the day in Terelj National Park, which reminds us of European mountain landscapes with their green forests. Also very impressive!
Our last leg takes us from Terelj National Park via Turtle Rock to UB City, where we now have a few hours of free time. Some want to just relax, while others go shopping or visit one of the many museums here in Ulaanbaatar. In the evening, we meet for a farewell dinner at a restaurant right in front of the hotel, where we are treated to an exquisite meal. Before, during, and after the meal, everyone shares their personal impressions and experiences during the tour. At the end, we say goodbye, as some are leaving early in the morning, but some are staying at least until tomorrow's breakfast at the hotel.
Today is our departure day. Unfortunately, we have to leave this wonderful country today, but no one can take away our memories of this trip. Many thanks to the entire crew for their support. Era – for organization and coordination during the tour Munkh – overall organization Temu – guide Buck – technical support Gana – head chef And to everyone else who helped quickly and effectively with setting up pavilions and tents, transporting luggage, etc. We wish everyone a safe journey home. Hopefully we will see you again soon, either here in Mongolia or somewhere else on our wonderful planet. Riders Erin, Lawrence, Hannes, Manfred, Wolfi, Hetal, Hesham, Darrell & EBT Tourguide Bernhard - Bernie