The Ultimate Alps Tour
We chugged from Seefeld to Innsbruck on the Mitterwald railway – romantic, leisurely, and slightly nostalgic, as if the train had transported us straight into the last century. The clouds were hanging so low, we weren't sure if it was fog or just Innsbruck's way of giving us a mystical welcome. Bill and I weren't fazed – true adventurers aren’t scared off by a little end-of-the-world weather. Our tour guide on the train enthusiastically fed us Tyrolean history – as if he'd personally lived through most of it. As soon as we got off, Innsbruck greeted us with rain – probably to make sure we’d never forget the tour. Luckily, everything was within walking distance, so we had no excuse to hide in a café (though we did that later anyway – with cake that was probably illegal in some countries). Between the Golden Roof, Swarovski sparkle palace, and medieval alleyways, we felt like time travelers with umbrellas. The churches not only offered culture, but much-needed shelter. After another round of caffeine and calories, we decided we’d soaked up just enough culture for the day. Back in Seefeld, the welcome briefing awaited us – and we were ready… or at least well-fed and slightly damp.
The Hotel Eden in Seefeld is the best place to start the awesome "Ultimate Alps Tour" which touches Austria, Italy and Switzerland. We start in Seefeld, a skiing and hiking resort above the Inn Valley. On the very first riding day, we head to Switzerland to spend a few days there. Afterwards, we will stay one night each in Lugano, the Swiss version of the Côte d'Azur, and in Val di Sole, the sunny valley that is already in Italy. There will also be two nights in Klobenstein, which is called Collalbo in Italian and is located high above Bolzano. This is the most beautiful part of the entire Alps, the Dolomites. It will be difficult to say goodbye to this place. And I can tell you one thing: After this tour, no one should complain about chicken stripes on their tires ...
Everyone is eager for the first few miles on the bike. We pass Imst and Landeck and head into the Pitztal Valley. We're all still so amazed by the scenery that we don't even notice we're crossing the border into Italy. And then we're at the Reschen Pass and then Lake Reschen. Here we see the sunken church in the reservoir, which was built in a less ideal time... At the Stelvio Pass, Bruno awaits us with his wonderful delicacies. But the ride up was a wonderful one, which we all discuss again here. Happy but tired, we arrive in Pontresina. And here we enjoy a wonderful dinner.
This route today is all about mountain passes and curves, curves, curves! For those who like it a bit more complex (i.e. spectacular, fantastic, breathtaking, etc.), this route is recommended. It takes us to Central Switzerland and brings us directly to the fourth largest lake in Switzerland, on the shores of Lake Lucerne. You can look forward to a fantastic day of riding. And shortly before we arrive on our Hotel, we take gas in Altdorf. It is best known as the place where, according to the legend, Wilhelm Tell shot the apple from his son's head.
First thing in the morning, we set off on a relaxing ferry ride across Lake Lucerne. Afterward, we hop from village to village, but soon it's back uphill and onto the passes. First, the beautiful Susten Pass awaits, offering 45 km of pure biking pleasure. We then make a detour to enjoy lunch at the end of a secluded side valley. And then the next pass awaits us: the Furka Pass. Here, we'll follow in James Bond's footsteps, as there's a bend named after him on the eastern slope! Even more interesting, however, is the tongue of the Rhone Glacier, which we get up close to on the descent to the west. A short walk to the ice is almost a must! In the evening, weather permitting, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Matterhorn from the village of Zermatt.
It is not difficult to spend all day in Zermatt without getting bored. There is good shopping in town and good hiking around it and if you take the cog railway up to Gornergrat, you can not only see the Matterhorn up close and personal, but a whole line-up of huge, glacier-clad mountains. This panorama does easily take your breath away (just like the price for the ticket, probably ...). For the part of the group that rides their bike today, we go to Verbier, a well-known ski resort. In summer there is not much going on there, but the road that leads up from the Rhone Valley is amazing. It leads across a little-known mountain pass known as Col de la Croix de Coeur. So, we have fun!
This day we're moving around the Italian-speaking Swiss canton of Ticino and Italy. To get there, we cross the Simplon Pass and then ride down to the sun-drenched, palm-fringed shores of Lake Maggiore. Canobbio is a picture-book town right on the lake, and there we'll indulge in a real Italian pizza or even a handmade gelato. Or both. After lunch we ride a bit along the shore and then cross the lake with a small ferry. And then it gets really exciting - from a rider's point of view: the road over the Passo Sant'Antonio is extremely curvy and so narrow that you could swear you were on a one-way road. But you're not, and because passing places are rare, "interesting" situations can occur. We cross the Swiss-Italian border directly at Lake Lugano and shortly thereafter reach the city of Lugano, which is beautifully nestled on the north shore of the lake. Here you can stroll along the palm-lined streets and enjoy the mild climate. No wonder Lugano is one of the most expensive cities in Switzerland ...
From Lake Como to Val Camonica via remote back roads. The roads are exceedingly narrow and winding. In the morning we ride on the main road along Lake Lugano and over to Lake Como, which we cross with a small ferry. We stay on the eastern shore for only a few kilometers, then turn and hit the mountains and up to our first pass. Through a narrow gorge and over two more passes, we then reach Passo Vivione, the highest, longest, and most beautiful of these remote backroad passes. We descend into the Valtellina valley. Here things are much busier again and we follow the wide road up to the Tonale Pass. Here, ski tourism reigns supreme, which doesn't exactly beautify the landscape, but on the other hand, the choice of cafés and restaurants is great. From the Tonale Pass, we finally ride down into Val di Sole, the Sunny Valley, where our accommodation is located.
Today we have a somewhat shorter, but still very interesting riding day ahead of us. It leads us to or to the vicinity of Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, and offers riding fun, culture, and a lot of fantastic scenery. First, we ride right through the Adamello Brenta National Park and past the famous ski resort of Madonna di Campiglio. We circle the mighty mountain range of the Brenta Dolomites, which can best be admired at Lake Molveno when they are reflected in the mirror-like surface of the lake. Simply fantastic! We then reach the Val di Non, whose wide valley floor is covered by vast apple orchards. Did you know that every tenth apple that grows in Europe comes from South Tyrol? At the edge of the valley, we take a look at a highly interesting small monastery and then ride up to Monte Penegal, a panoramic mountain crowned by panoramic hotel. From its terrace, you have an incomparable view down into the Adige Valley, to Bolzano, to Lake Kaltern, and across to the rock towers of the Dolomites. Nowhere does coffee taste as good as here, in the face of th immense panorama. The Mendel Pass brings us down into the valley of the Adige River and to Bolzano.
This day offers a lot of options to spend a great rest day. You could take the cable car down to visit Bolzano, and to stroll through the old town, or to sit at the main square, living the Italian way of life with an espresso. Bolzano has also very good shopping opportunities, as well as sights to be admired. Maybe you want to visit the museum of the famous Iceman “Ötzi” - or how people in US call him: "Frozen Fred". For those who prefer to ride on the rest day, the area around Bolzano is ideal to be explored by bike. Are you prepared for a wonderful day of riding the finest motorcycle roads? Come with us and experience the beauty of the Dolomites! A day full of twists and turns.
Three passes are on the agenda today, including the second-highest in the entire Eastern Alps! We start with a leisurely approach up to the Penserjoch, which is very popular with motorcyclists but altogether little used. Immediately after, the Jaufenpass awaits, which is a bit lower but offers equally spectacular views. In the "Edelweißhütte" we enjoy a coffee and admire the panorama. Back down in the valley, we arrive in the small village of St. Leonhard, the birthplace of the Tyrolean freedom fighter Andreas Hofer. His home was the Sandwirt, which still exists today. Here we stop for lunch and you shouldn't miss taking a look at the ancient dining room, which is still in operation. Afterwards, we climb the Timmelsjoch and cover almost 1800 meters in altitude! The road is narrow and the scenery spectacular, here it is easy to get distracted, but you should avoid that at all costs! After the summit tunnel, we cross the border to Austria where the road becomes much wider and smoother to ride. But the owners of the road sure make you pay for that... After the pass, we ride down into the Ötztal and follow it to the end. Or almost to the end, because if we still have time, then we can add a fourth pass to our collection. The Kühtai is only just over 2000 m high but offers some nice curves once again. The day ultimately ends where our tour started just over a week ago, in Seefeld. Wow, what a trip!