Andalusia - Motorcycle Touring at its Best - CSS2504

Today, we finally get started. Everybody is arriving at our start hotel with views onto the Mediterranean Sea accompanied by comfortable temperatures around 20C and some sun on our faces. The motorcycles are ready to go and awaiting their new riders, which in turn can't wait to get their hands on them. But first things first in the late afternoon we meet for our welcome briefing, which gives us a chance to introduces ourselves, to explain the daily proceedings, how we handle things and what we can expect. This is also a great time to ask some questions before we hand out the bikes and have a first look at them in the car park. Always a moment of much excitement, we went from here to the welcome dinner and enjoyed our first taste of Andalusia, swapped some motorcycle stories and got to know each other a little better. We all went to bed tonight anticipating tomorrow's start!

Our 1st Riding day, what should we say... was just perfect! It started under the gentle glow of the Andalusian autumn sun that what accompany us throughout the day. After we left bustling Malaga first thing in the morning, we made our way up the house mountains of the city into the National Park Montes de Malaga. The fantastic conditions brought already some early riders and cyclist to join into the fun. From above we could enjoy stunning views over the city and its bay taking up the horizon. From here we went further inland and into the rural hinterland. And the road were an absolute blast, twisting and turning, setting a rhythm you could loose yourself in. We stop for a well deserved coffee break in Colmenar before we were heading south again towards the coast. Here, it got busier again, settlements, restaurants, hotels lining the beautiful beach fronts. Once we left this hubs of urbanization behind, we found ourselves winding in and out of a rocky shoreline again. Until, we arrived at our lunch spot a lovely little fish restaurant right at the beach overlooking the waves rolling in. It wont get better than that. So we relaxed, enjoyed the comfortable warm day, chatting along and enjoying a fantastic meal. It would be a lie to say it was easy to get back on the bikes a siesta under one of the beach umbrellas, was what everyone had in mind. Nevertheless, we swung our legs over the bikes again and took them into the Parque Natural de Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. What a breathtaking beauty! You slowly climb in elevation, the roads winding it's way. On top you have pine forests and the air has a hint of chill in it. Looking towards the coast you are rewarded with fantastic views and in the opposite direction with towering peaks of the Sierra. Everyone had to contain a big smile under their helmets. We decided to have a last stop in a rustic little bodega at the side of the road, which was bustling with all kinds of outdoor lovers and weekend warriors. We enjoyed a little coffee in the sun on the terrace and swapped some of our riding experiences. Now, it was just an hour into Granada and due to the weekend we were spared any commuter traffic, which meant a fast ride into town. Before dinner we meant on the roof top terrace of our hotel enjoying a drink and the glittering lights of the city. What a great start for our Andalusian Adventure!

Today we're not setting off on our motorcycles, but rather taking a walk through history – a visit to the impressive Alhambra! This masterpiece of Moorish architecture towers over Granada, whose name “Granada” (pomegranate) is inspired by the reddish glow of the city walls. The warm color comes from the iron-rich clay used to build the Alhambra – a unique glow in the Andalusian sunlight. Walking through its gardens and palaces, you could feel the spirit of times gone by – artistic, poetic, and steeped in history. Leaving Granada behind and after a short drive on the highway, we headed into the rolling olive hills, where Franziska was waiting for us in a pine forest with a wonderful picnic. After the exclusive surprise lunch with a great view, our route took us on endless winding roads past what felt like millions of olive trees, interrupted only by a short coffee stop before we reached our destination for the day: JAÉN - the uncrowned capital of olive oil. Located on the hill of Santa Catalina and next to the castle of the same name, the “Parador de Jaén” crowns the city with its impressive façade of huge stone walls and its impressive interior vault, offering us a spectacular panoramic view of the mountains of the Sierra Morena and Sierra Mágina. Its interior exudes the charm of the Andalusian Renaissance in traditional style, and the combination of sober defensive architecture with regional handicrafts transports us directly to a bygone era. A delicious dinner and cheerful conversation round off the day perfectly.

It was a little bit difficult to leave our fabulous hotel behind this morning, but we faced the bittersweet goodbye. Once we were on the open road again we were rewarded with superpe twististies and a nearly mystical landscape with morning mist still hanging onto the valleys and dips of this angulated landscape and the warm morning sun just bouncing of it. It was a pure bliss to get your day started like this. Coming into Alcalá la Real we admired the Fortaleza de la Mota, the remidice of a medieval stronghold overlooking the surrounding area. In town we found an authentic little cafe, were we enjoyed little coffee and relaxed chat. From here we continued through more Olive groves on our way to the dam of Iznajar. Olive trees are the dominant feature since we left Granada only occasionally interrupted by random other agriculture. Every so often you come across a little cooperative collective point or even a small oil manufacturing plant. Olive oil is truly at the heart of this culture and any meal you get served. We had such a blast this morning riding, that we arrived early at our planned lunch spot and not feeling completely satisfied yet the group decided to continue further. So we rode to Embalse de Iznajar and took a spot at a fabulous little restaurant directly at the lake. And as always on our Andalusian journey so far we were given huge plates with fantastic dishes. Therefore it was no wonder we had an extensive lunch there in every sense of the word. This food needed some time to settle. Martin and Mike went for a stroll on the shore line were the rest stayed back and enjoyed the views of the azure blue waters. The last leg of the ride went again through some isolated hills with some farms and tiny hamlets dotted around. It was only a short ride now to Antequerra but again more than enjoyable. We just made it back in time for a little sundowner on the sunny hotel terrace before the evening creeped in and we retrieved inside. Again what a great day of riding!

Today we set off from Antequera – under bright blue skies and in high spirits. Our small, international group from Canada, England and Switzerland was ready for a day that offered everything you could imagine for a perfect Andalusian motorbike trip: scenery, bends and stories to tell in the evening with a big smile on your face. Just half an hour after setting off, we were already in the middle of the "El Torcal" nature reserve. This bizarre, almost moon-like landscape of weathered limestone formations is one of the most spectacular karst areas in Europe. Wind, rain and time have carved sculptures out of solid rock that look like stacked stone discs, deformed towers or gigantic, hand-carved figures. A surreal place – and a perfect start. We continued on a seemingly endless dance of curves along narrow roads that lay like a fine network across the landscape. And then our first coffee stop awaited us: Café Mirador. Local style, a little vintage, a little quirky – but above all: a viewing balcony directly above a road tunnel, overlooking the emerald green reservoir "Embalse del Conde de Guadalhorce". Coffee with a view takes on a whole new meaning here. Refreshed, we tackled the next challenge: the narrow and wonderfully winding road up to the "Mirador Tajo Encantada". From here, you can see far across valleys, rocks and the waters of the reservoir. The name means "enchanted abyss" – and anyone who has stood up there knows why. Our journey continued to the Garganta del Chorro, a deep, dramatic gorge framed by high rock faces and famous for its dizzying hiking trails carved into the rock walls. Here, nature has created a monument that is both intimidating and inspiring. A place that shows what water and time can achieve together. After these three highlights and what felt like 10,000 bends, our bodies eventually made themselves felt: the motorcycle seats suddenly felt harder than they had in the morning. So it was time for a break – and we found one in Setenil, in a restaurant serving wonderful local food. Just what we needed at that moment: a plate of food that tasted of the region and its traditions. Well fortified, we continued on our way and soon arrived in Olvera – one of the most beautiful white villages in Andalusia. High above the village, the Arab castle towers like a guardian from the past, next to it rises the majestic "Iglesia de la Encarnación" church with its two striking towers. A sight that leaves a lasting impression. After a final coffee stop at a typical Spanish street café in Coripe, we finally flew at a brisk pace through long curves towards Seville in the light of the setting sun. The shadows grew longer, the sky turned golden – and shortly afterwards we drove into the city, already greeted by darkness. Our small international group agreed: it was a day to remember. A day that lingers – in the body, in the mind and in the heart. After a refreshing shower, we meet for a cosy dinner in a great restaurant just a few minutes' walk away. And over Andalusian specialities and a glass of wine, the stories of the day are sure to come alive again. Viva la España, Viva la Andalucía. And tomorrow? Tomorrow, the next chapter of our Andalusian motorbike fairy tale awaits...

As you know, our Andalusia tour isn't "just" about motorcycling. Today was our first rest day, and although we offered an optional round trip into the hinterland of Seville, the whole group unanimously decided to go sightseeing on their own, and everyone did their own thing. And honestly, it was a good decision! Seville simply has too much to offer to be ignored. At the top of the list is the royal elegance of the "Alcázar", a fairytale palace where every courtyard and every tile strip looks as if it has just been sprinkled with fairy dust for the photo. Another must-see highlight is the "Cathedral Giralda", the city's landmark – imposing, steeped in history and with a tower that used to be a minaret. Seville just loves to mix cultures. The "Plaza de España" should also be on the itinerary: half film set, half architectural marvel, it leaves visitors wide-eyed. Right next door, the "Parque María Luisa" invites you to take a deep breath – shade, palm trees, fountains, everything is there. Those who prefer something more modern will find what they are looking for at the "Metropol Parasol", a futuristic wooden structure that looks as if an over-motivated architect decided that Seville urgently needed a few XXL mushrooms, which is why the locals call it "Setas de Sevilla" (the mushrooms of Seville). Incidentally, it is the largest wooden art structure in the world. In between, it's worth taking a detour to the working-class "district of Triana", which, with its colourful tiles, flamenco roots and narrow streets, is like a living history book. And, of course, the bullring "Plaza del Toro", the "Basilica de la Macarena", the "Torre del Oro" and the "Plaza Nueva" should also part of the day's programme – Seville is a unique open-air museum where there is something for everyone. Everywhere you look, people are sitting outside in cafés and bars, chatting, laughing and feasting on tapas. You can really feel that this city loves life. In the evening, we were all together again – the ideal setting for a cultural highlight: a flamenco show at the "Casa del Flamenco". And what a show it was! Captivating, intense, full of passion. The dancers whirled across the stage, the guitar and singers lamented and cheered, and we sat there with our mouths open. Magnificent. Afterwards, we went for dinner at a typical Andalusian tapas bar. As the weather forecast for tomorrow doesn't look too good, we took advantage of the warm temperatures and ate outside. A fantastic selection of food, good conversation, lots of laughter – the perfect end to a relaxed but eventful day. "Seville delivered. And how!"

Today was supposed to be another fantastic day of winding roads – but the weather god clearly had other plans. Instead of elegantly winding our way through Andalusia's serpentine roads, we set off in the morning dressed like a troupe of futuristic rubber dolls, and our lean angles on the slippery side roads were not quite up to Marquez standards. And anyone who thinks rain suits are unsexy has never seen us all standing in the rain together. A real catwalk moment! First stop: Cabezas de San Juan, where we collectively wondered during our coffee break whether we would ever see dry gloves again. Then it was time for the first real highlight of the day: lunch at the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera. This historic Parador hotel, perched high above the white village, is housed in a former 17th-century mansion and definitely falls into the “wow” category. Normally, the terrace offers an incredible view of the surrounding plains – but today, the terrace was closed due to rain and the view was a maximum of “50 shades of gray.” But the drive up there, on narrow, steep streets and wet cobblestones, was, as always, a little adventure. In the afternoon, the route took us through the land of fighting bulls – an area where the bulls that will one day enter the arena are raised. Today, they were probably standing somewhere under a tree, their hooves in the mud, thinking, “Well, at least it's not just raining on us.” We had hoped that the sky would take pity on us after lunch – but no. The weather gods obviously enjoyed continuing to water us. After a final afternoon coffee in Jimena de la Frontera – where we were already dripping like a bad-tempered waterfall – we arrived at the hotel in the evening tired and soaking wet. Incidentally, the rain had found creative ways to penetrate some people's supposedly waterproof clothing, which is why showers and massages were at the top of the evening's agenda. With our spirits revived, we enjoyed a very fine dinner together at the hotel, as always late in the Spanish style, which finally brought a small smile to everyone's faces – at least a mini compensation for the day that had literally fallen through. It's supposed to rain tomorrow as well, but since we have a rest day and most of us prefer sightseeing, tapas, and shopping to motorcycling, that's almost perfect. In the end, there are two sides to everything: Of course, we motorcyclists prefer to ride in dry weather, but for nature, which has been severely strained over the summer, the rain is a blessing. Viva la Aqua – and here's to better conditions after the rest day!

We had a little lie in this morning and met for a late breakfast and an amazing breakfast buffet it was! It was hard to stop eating and even Mike our Breakfast Grouch went for a generous portion. Unfortunately, the outside world was showed a rather grim display, the weather was really foul, rain, windy gusts and more rain. So it wasn't hard to give riding today a pass. The group dispersed for the morning, a massage was booked, who wouldn't wanna use the Spa on a day like this. There was also the finish of a good book waiting and some brave souls faced the rain and walked into town. You had to see at least the famous Puenta Nuevo. Ronda is also a great spot to find some last minute souvenirs in one of the small stores near the bridge. In the afternoon we decided to visit LA Almazara, which is the name for a local public oil press, which is still today a very common thing in many villages as most families still have a few trees and make their own oil. LA Almazara in Ronda is a commercial oil mergent who has created a beautiful space dedicated to the olive oil. In the museum you can learn about the history of the oil and how it is made before you enjoy a little tasting at the end. All in all an interesting visit for a rainy day.

Unfortunately, our motorbike tour of Andalusia is coming to an end – and as is so often the case when something has been really enjoyable, the weather is trying to add a little drama at the end. In any case, the forecasts read like a dark fairy tale: "Once upon a time, there was a day full of rain..." So, as a precaution, we chose our alternative, slightly shorter route. But then: we set off under dark clouds that looked as if they were about to swallow us up – but no! After a few kilometres, it brightened up and every now and then the sun even peeked through, as if winking at us: "I'm on your side anyway." Our first stop took us to the Guarda Forestal Nature Park, where a breathtaking view of the surrounding valleys awaited us. A panorama that silences even the most experienced tour guide for a moment – and that's saying something. This was followed by a wonderfully winding series of bends: wet, but with amazing grip. So, full concentration, brisk driving – and lots of driving fun, which almost made us forget that we had actually planned for rain today. At lunchtime, we stopped in Mijas – another one of those typical Andalusian white villages that look freshly washed and decorated especially for postcards. Cafés, shops, narrow streets – and right in the middle of it all, us, enjoying our last lunch together on the tour. We picked up our last souvenirs or simply bottled some good cheer. The weather gods, apparently in a gracious mood, let us roll back to Málaga dry. In the early afternoon, we reached our starting hotel – and there she was waiting for us: Franzi, armed with the legendary "boot beer". An Edelweiss tradition: an after-work beer straight from the boot. Simple, but absolutely brilliant. The guests now had time off, while we tour guides switched back into work mode and loaded the motorcycles onto the trailer. Unfortunately, at that moment the heavens gates opened again and it rained continuously until the last motorcycle was safely secured on the trailer. Soaked to the skin, but happy that we were now really done for the day, we looked forward to a hot shower and dry clothes. In the evening, we met one last time for a relaxed farewell dinner. We looked back, laughed, joked and told stories – just as a tour finale should be. Everyone agreed: This tour of Andalusia was a complete success. Lots of sun, lots of curves, lots of great views – and above all: trouble-free and accident-free kilometres that will be talked about for a long time to come. Goodbye Andalusia – Viva la Espania – and see you on the next adventure with Edelweiss Bike Travel!