to the End of the world, Adventure Patagonia APA2502
Welcome to Chile. Our adventure begins here in Osorno. This small town is a springboard for many Patagonia adventurers. We use the day to explore the city a little and recharge our batteries after the long journey. In the evening, we all meet for a detailed briefing, where we discuss everything important for the next few days. After all, we don't want to and shouldn't set off into the wilderness completely unprepared. Afterwards, we get to know each other better over our first dinner together. We can hardly wait to finally start our engines... End of the world, here we come.
Finally, the first day of our tour is here, and dry bags, helmets, and jackets are piled up in the lobby. All that stands between us and the big departure is a briefing and a little packing of the motorcycles. Before we start our journey south, however, we first head north. The Northern Patagonian Lake District awaits us here. The roads along the shores are beautifully winding and the mountains in the background provide a breathtaking backdrop. Just as breathtaking are the portions served for lunch, as we quickly learn during our stop at an authentic restaurant. On the beautiful promenade of Lake Villarrica, we actually want to catch a glimpse of the volcano of the same name. Unfortunately, the rain catches up with us and the clouds block the view. Fortunately, our hotel is not far away, so we manage to get to our chic hotel, located in a pretty park, without getting wet. The first day comes to a relaxed end.
Today we leave Pucon in Chile and head for Argentina. When we set off, it is still very cloudy and the mountain peaks are shrouded in mist. However, this changes before our coffee break and we enjoy a wonderful day's driving in perfect conditions. After a coffee by the river, we continue towards the border. Crossing the border is easier than expected, even though we have to go through immigration and customs on both sides. Now the first part of the adventure begins as we leave the paved road and drive onto a gravel road (called “ripio” here) into the pampas of Argentina. After lunch, we continue on a scenic gravel road through the pampas to a lake and finally to our destination for the day in San Martin de los Andes. Covered in dust, we are already looking forward to tomorrow.
Good morning Patagonia, day four of our adventure begins better than the weather forecast suggested. So we start this new day in good spirits. One that will make our adventurous hearts beat even faster. The highlight of the day is undoubtedly the Passo de Cordoba. A road you wouldn't have to drive if you didn't want to, because it is so incredibly beautiful. The gravel pass winds its way for 65 kilometers through spectacular scenery of forests, mountains, and rock formations along the banks of rushing rivers and beautiful lakes. An unforgettable experience. Back on the asphalt, we soon reach Bariloche, where we not only have to organize lunch, but also first aid for one of our bikes. The guys are worth their weight in gold. In the afternoon, we continue south. The famous Ruta 40 is the only connection between Bariloche and our destination, El Bolson. The views and variety of colors along this stretch of road are almost impossible to put into words. But even the most beautiful road in Patagonia has its pitfalls. This day has been one of the most exciting and beautiful of the tour so far... we can't wait to venture further into the wilderness and rugged beauty of this landscape.
The nighttime rain cleared up just in time for the start of the day. Our start to the day is dry, and it gets better with every kilometer. Our first stop of the day is a building that, at first glance, looks unremarkable in the middle of nowhere. The small café is more than just charming. The famous outlaw Budge Cassedy had a hideout nearby, and of course we don't want to miss this exciting place after a coffee. The highlight today is undoubtedly Los Alceres National Park. Named after the trees of the same name, the park offers exciting gravel roads and beautiful, untouched nature, which we enjoy to the fullest during lunch by the lake. The play of colors and the beauty of this landscape accompany us for the rest of the day. In the afternoon, we cross the border into Chile again and finally reach our destination for the day, Futaleufu. The small town in the middle of the mountains touches our hearts. Another spectacular day comes to an end. Let's keep it up.
Back in Chile, we set off for the next road highlight in South America. First on asphalt, then on gravel along the Futaleufu River, with magnificent views, until we reach the Carretera Austral. Since today's section of the Carretera is already completely paved, we take a short detour on gravel before lunch to explore the surrounding countryside. This turns out to be the best idea of the day, as we get to experience the real Chile here. Narrow gravel roads and even narrower bridges do not allow heavy traffic, and the untouched nature inspires us all. After lunch, we wind our way through hills and forests and along the fjord before Puyuhuapi until we reach our camp for the night. We actually want to go further, but then we would have nothing left for tomorrow, or at least less.
A new day dawns in adventure land. The night's rain has subsided and the view to the south promises another beautiful day. Our route first takes us along the Puyuhuapi Fjord. The famous Carratera Austral winds its way along the steep rock faces, alternating between paved and unpaved sections. Imposing, snow-capped mountains along the fjord dominate the landscape. What a start to the day. Our highlight of the day is the Paso Queulet. This unpaved road winds its way up the mountain for about 5 kilometers. It is both a real challenge and an unforgettable experience. The way down is paved and can certainly compete with well-known mountain passes in Europe in terms of driving pleasure. For the rest of the day, we could continue to throw around superlatives without exaggerating. This landscape, these colors... It's almost impossible to concentrate on driving. In the early afternoon, we finally reach Coyhaique, where we can revise our equipment once again in a motorcycle clothing store that has been opened especially for us. Another thoroughly successful day.
First, we ride through hilly landscapes that are somewhat reminiscent of Europe. When we reach the “Cuesta del Diablo” before our first break, we are greeted by sunshine and a view that many can only dream of. A little later, we take a short break before the surface of the “Carretera Austal” changes back to gravel. Dusty, we follow the shore of South America's second-largest lake (Lago General Carrera – CHI / Lago Buenos Aires -ARG), where we also take our lunch break. Afterwards, our group splits up, as some take a boat trip to the nearby marble caves and the rest drive directly to our accommodation by the lake. Although the water is very cold, one of us ventures out for a quick swim. Tomorrow we will cross back over the border and then return.
The view down to the lake from the balconies of our cabanas built on stilts is a perfect start to the day. There is no one else here but us. And so the day begins peacefully with the usual hustle and bustle😉 Today, our route takes us to Argentina once again. Not that we have many options for getting there, but at least we have two, and of course we choose the more scenic one. The Paso Raballos is relatively unknown compared to the much more famous Chile Chika route. However, in terms of scenery and route profile, it is much more spectacular. And so we set off. However, once we reach the pass, tension mounts. Rumors are circulating that the road is impassable during the night's rainfall. After some time and many conversations with park rangers and other motorcyclists who have also “heard” something, we decide to give it a try. And we manage to master the passage with its spectacular scenery. Unfortunately, the general confusion about the situation and the flooded road on the otherwise lonely route has caused a traffic jam of bikers. Unfortunately, it didn't clear up until we reached the border. And so, crossing the border felt like it took forever. After many hours of waiting, we finally arrived in Argentina. The route here demanded a lot from us once again. But the landscape was magnificent. Happy but exhausted after this very long, short day, we arrive at our destination for today, Lago Posades. An unusual place at the end of an unusual day.
Once again, the sky is almost cloudless, which is no surprise at the edge of the desert. Today's motto is “The Great Emptiness.” As we leave Lago Posadas, we dive into the Patagonian desert. No trees grow here, and agriculture is almost impossible. There are only a few guanacos, similar to llamas, which feed on the sparse small shrubs and drought-resistant grasses. When we reach Ruta 40, we stop to refuel, as this is the only gas station and shopping opportunity on a 350 km stretch of the main road. We also buy a few sandwiches for our lunch here. The route through the desert with its long straights is quite challenging due to the many potholes. The last section takes us back onto gravel roads to Hacienda Estancia de Angostura, a farm where we are served grilled lamb, chorizos, and chicken this evening.
The day begins as beautifully as the last one ended. With all the peace and quiet out here, we have almost forgotten the noise of our cities. We return to the track from the previous day and continue our journey south. The first 116 kilometers are really tough. The notorious Patagonian wind is omnipresent today, and the route keeps us on our toes with its deep gravel in places. The landscape around us is barren and incredibly vast. The moment we drive over this hill and the deep blue Lago Cardiel appears in front of us, in the middle of the pampas, is unforgettable. A spectacular play of colors. Back on the asphalt, the Fitzroy massif is already rising on the horizon. From now on, we are getting closer and closer to the iconic mountain peaks and thus to our destination for today, El Chalten. Here we have the choice of either ending the day relaxing at the hotel or venturing deeper into the Glacier National Park and experiencing a little adventure on the gravel.
We leave El Chalten and set off for El Calafate. Shortly afterwards, we catch sight of Lake Videma with its drifting icebergs. The air is cool and clear, the sun is shining and there is not a cloud in the sky. We look in our mirrors and see Mount Fitz Roy and the mountain range of the Southern Ice Field. After a few kilometres, we reach the end of the lake and follow the La Leona River on Ruta 40 until we reach our break spot. As we only have a short distance to cover today, we don't have lunch until shortly before arriving at our hotel in El Calafate. The afternoon is then free for us to do as we please, and some decide to stroll around town while others simply relax on the terrace. Tomorrow would be a rest day, but the group will probably go to the Perito Moreno Glacier. More on that tomorrow.
After many thousands of kilometers and countless adventures, big and small, today is the first rest day of our tour. El Calafate is surprisingly busy for its isolated location. And for good reason. Just a few kilometers outside the city limits lies one of Patagonia's main attractions, the Perito Moreno Glacier. It is one of the few glaciers in the world that climate change has long been unable to affect – or so we thought. And so we have a choice: we can relax at the hotel, explore the city on our own, or enjoy the countless curves along Lago Argentino with our guide and take a boat trip to the glacier. Whatever we decide, we enjoy a relaxing day in perfect weather and simply let the day pass by.
Today we leave El Calafate and head for Puerto Natales. After about half an hour, we reach Ruta 40 again, shortly before which we look back once more at the mountain and glacier chain of the southern ice sheet. Then our route takes us back into dry Patagonia. A short distance from the roadside, we repeatedly see small Darwin's rheas, and guanacos are also frequently found near the roadside. Extreme caution is required here, as they can suddenly cross from one side to the other without warning, and collisions must be avoided at all costs. After a refuelling and coffee break, we continue towards the border with Chile, where customs clearance is very efficient and quick today. After lunch, just across the border, we find ourselves in another world. The colourful plants and green meadows with cattle and sheep remind us of Europe. We reach our destination early on a winding country road. After our first impressions, we are already expecting spectacular things tomorrow.
Today is our second rest day of the tour, but most of us honestly don't take that much time to rest. One of the highlights of any trip to Patagonia awaits us just outside the city gates: Torres del Paine National Park. Many of the pictures of Patagonia that we know from the internet were taken here. Even the drive to the park is an experience. After the barren pampas of the last day, the majestic peaks and lakes of this landscape are a welcome change. In the national park itself, we are overwhelmed, with one postcard motif after another. Turquoise lakes, spectacular rock formations, and thundering waterfalls. Everything we expect from Patagonia can be found here. It is not easy to put this landscape into words. But pictures say more than a thousand words anyway.
Today we start the last quarter of our tour. And this part of the tour is all about long days and great personal achievements. And this day is loooooong, the longest of our tour so far, with almost 400 kilometers ahead of us today. That sounds like a lot at first, but the lonely and almost dead straight roads ensure that we make good progress. Unfortunately, the ride towards the Strait of Magellan is not particularly eventful. A small detour via a gravel passage and an abandoned estancia, complete with a shipwreck, provides some variety. And before we know it, we have already arrived at the famous Strait of Magellan. We quickly realize that not many tourists take this route. No fancy restaurants or crowded viewpoints, just us, our bikes, and lots of pampas. After a short ferry ride and a very simple afternoon snack, we finally reach Tierra del Fuego. A place whose name is familiar to many people, but hardly anyone knows what to imagine when they hear it. We are here, we have made it. The end of the world is within reach.
After getting a little rain yesterday, for the first time, mind you, the sun welcomes us to Tierra del Fuego today. Part of the group leaves Hosteria Tunkelen (meaning Hosteria Peace and Rest) on a gravel road, while the other part swings over Ruta 3 towards the Argentine border. The landscape becomes greener again and we now see flocks of sheep, cattle and guanacos, often very close to the road. We then continue along the coast to Rio Grande. After a short stop, we continue to the bakery of Spanish emigrants in Tolhuin, where delicious pastries and chocolates await us. Along Lago Fagnano, between forests with views of the Patagonian mountains, our spirits are lifted. Especially in anticipation of our arrival in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, which we reach after crossing the Paso Garibaldi. We celebrate our arrival with a boot beer and then with a typical Argentinean dinner. Stay tuned, tomorrow will be exciting too.
Today is a rest day. Some relax and enjoy their day off in Ushuaia, while the others board a catamaran to explore the Beagle Channel. Here we visit small islands populated by cormorants, sea lions and penguins. We also spot a few condors as we stop near the southernmost lighthouse. Just in time for a quick lunch, we arrive back in Ushuaia after a five-hour trip. Then it's off to do some shopping. Once you've reached the end of the world, you have to buy some souvenirs or send a postcard with the Ushuaia postmark. Another eventful day for everyone. Let's see if we can travel further south tomorrow.
After reaching Ushuaia, undoubtedly the biggest milestone of our tour, we are not yet at our destination. Our journey of discovery continues. So, let's put on our dusty boots and get going. The next highlight is already waiting for us. First, we leave Ushuaia heading west. We may have reached the end of the world, but we haven't reached the end of the road yet. To do this, we have to ride to Tierra del Fuego National Park. Here, we could take the charming narrow-gauge railway to explore the park, but what kind of bikers would we be then? The dusty trails through the forests are much more exciting on a motorcycle. And so we reach Fin del Mundo under our own steam. There's really no going further here. And so, with many memories in our luggage, we start our way back to the mainland. Once again, we enjoy the ride over the Paso Garibaldi before heading back into the barren pampas with the rain at our backs. Our destination today is Rio Grande, where we recharge our batteries for our last big stage in a five-star hotel.
Today is our last day of riding. We leave Rio Grande and immediately face an incredibly long straight left-hand bend, which is due to the strong crosswind that forces us to lean into the bend even on the straight. After just under an hour, we reach the border crossing from Argentina back into Chile. After quickly completing the formalities, we have a clear run to the Strait of Magellan. After reaching the shore, we stop for a bite to eat before continuing on to Punta Arenas. Once there, we hand over our motorbikes and take a shuttle to our hotel. But our journey isn't quite over yet. Today, we have a farewell dinner and spend one last evening together. Now it's done. A 20-day journey has come to an end. We had excellent weather, not too much wind, no precipitation apart from a few drops, and generally pleasant temperatures. We wish you all a safe and pleasant journey home, as well as fond memories of our days together. Hopefully we will see you again soon. Your tour guides