Southern Italy Delights & Twisties
Some people arrived a day early to see Florence and of course to celebrate Cornelia's birthday! While the group explored the city, Sebastian and Franzi completed the preparations and we started our tour relaxed in the garden with a drink and a short welcome briefing to get us in the mood for the tour. Then there were the motorbikes and everyone was allowed to play around with the new toy. The evening ended beautifully with a 3-course dinner together, or should we say 4 courses, because there was also a birthday cake!
Now it's finally starting! After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we set out to see some of Tuscany. We left Florence behind us and rode southeast towards Arezzo on quiet country roads. And the landscape actually looked the way you would imagine Tuscany to be. Small villages in the hills, olive groves, wheat fields, cypresses and vineyards. All of this is crossed by winding roads. We made our first coffee stop in Regello in a small, cozy coffee shop. It gave us a chance to warm up and put on extra layers. Although the rain was limited, the temperatures were a little lower than expected. From here we headed to Arezzo, the first highlight of the day. The former Etruscan city with its rich history boasted a beautiful market square and we followed a few narrow streets to have lunch at a great local osteria. The small location on the alley turned out to be a spacious restaurant spread over several houses with a rustic atmosphere and home-style Tuscan cuisine. Super delicious! While we were eating inside, it was raining heavily outside. But that was a good thing for us, because most of it was over by the time we continued. Our next stop was Cortona, unfortunately our luck ran out a bit and another rain shower shortened the city tour. Nevertheless, we got a brief insight. Cortona has a beautiful old town that is lined with small shops, boutiques and galleries. From here you also have a fantastic view of the surrounding area and Lake Trasimeno, which also marks the beginning of Umbria. We didn't miss a windy and wet photo stop at the lake before we drove straight to Perugia and found our 'secret garden' in the small streets there. Apart from the mixed weather, a successful start to our southern Italian adventure.
Unfortunately, we have to leave Perugia again. At least the sun is shining, so we enjoy the drive to Assisi and then on to the Sibillini Mountains. It’s cold but dry up in Castelluccio until noon. Then a snow shower rolls through, but we manage to stay warm with some hot lentil soup. During a brief dry spell, we quickly move on and head back down into the valley where it’s a bit warmer. The evening in Santo Stefano is truly extraordinary in this historic mountain village. Everyone is thrilled!
This morning we left the small mountain village of Santo Stefano behind and set off on winding roads through the beautiful landscapes of the Abruzzo region. The interplay of sun and clouds created a unique magic that hung over the panorama. Our first stop was in San Valentino, where, as usual, we enjoyed coffee and small treats. Refreshed, we headed towards the Passo San Leonardo, a popular motorcycle route that was quite busy today, being Sunday. Many hikers were also drawn to this wonderful mountain region. The sun was now shining brightly over us, and the surrounding peaks were freshly dusted with snow – simply breathtaking. From here, we descended to Salmona, but we only stayed briefly as it was impossible to find a place for lunch. What we didn't know was that it was First Communion day, and the restaurants were either closed for their own celebrations or reserved for private parties. So, we quickly set off again and enjoyed more mountain roads. Since the group was traveling at a good pace, it was still early in the day. We finally found what we were looking for behind Lago di Scanno, and as Monika so aptly put it, an authentic restaurant. The place was packed, but the service was quick; we all left satisfied, and Peter made new acquaintances at the other tables while searching for Parmesan cheese. With full stomachs, we continued on our way, heading straight for our second pass, the Passo Godi. The road up is winding and varied, leading through the forest before reaching the mountain plateau. On the way down, we were once again rewarded with a fantastic panoramic view. Now it was time for a quick fuel stop and then off to the hotel, a hidden gem in the middle of nowhere. The peace and quiet and the views of the surrounding mountains are unbeatable, and nature is resplendent in its lush green glory. All that's left to do is enjoy it all with an Aperol Spritz!
A beautiful, peaceful morning greets us in the mountains. We savor it over breakfast while taking in the stunning views, because today we’re heading to the bustling, tourist-filled Amalfi Coast. We can expect heavy traffic. The day begins, however, with quiet country roads through the Matese National Park. After about an hour and a half, we stop—as always—in a small village with a cozy café and enjoy the Italian way of life. Lake Matese is the perfect spot for a panoramic photo, then we head to Caiazzo for lunch at a small, charming osteria. In the afternoon, we speed along the A1 past Naples to the mountains near Amalfi. From here on, it gets tough, and we inch our way down the mountain along with many others. But the view is beautiful.
We took our rest day at a leisurely pace. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast on the rooftop terrace before setting off on our four motorcycles for a tour of the Sorento Peninsula. The morning took us north through the lush interior, along a winding country road that first climbed and then descended to the plains surrounding Mount Versuvius. It's truly impressive how the volcano rises above the landscape, and one shudders to think what would happen if it were to erupt again. The area is now densely populated and a major economic driver for the region. In the lowlands, we experienced a bit of the infamous Neapolitan traffic, but our small group handled it well. As a reward, we enjoyed a short coffee break overlooking the Bay of Naples, and then plunged back into the hustle and bustle around Sorento. From there, we continued west until we reached the other end of the peninsula, then made a detour along the southern coast, the Amalfi Coast proper. We stopped for a relaxing lunch break at a cozy restaurant perched on the cliffs, overlooking the sea. Refreshed, we then set off on the final leg of our journey, passing Positano and Amalfi itself, before returning to our hotel in Maiori. As beautiful as this section was, it was quite busy, and we had to contend with tourists on foot and in the road. Nevertheless, all in all, it was a very enjoyable day. The rest of the group had different plans. Peter and Cornelia made sure to visit Pompeii, while the rest of us took a more leisurely approach, exploring the area and, of course, indulging in some gelato.
A sunny morning greets us at breakfast with a view of the sea. It’s absolutely wonderful here on the terrace. The temperatures and the traffic are still pleasant in the morning. We enjoy the drive along the coast toward Salerno and then take the highway. Another fantastic coffee stop in Serre makes our coffee-loving hearts beat faster—in more ways than one. So delicious. The drive after that is smooth sailing. Surrounded by nature, Franzi welcomes us with a surprise picnic. It’s a hit! The cheeses and Samali specialties are a treat. The afternoon offers a delightful drive along a winding route past Lago di Sirino and a perfect descent down to Morano Calabro in the afternoon light. Another perfect day!
After a leisurely breakfast of homemade jam and cake, we set off at a snail's pace. But the sun was shining brightly with pleasant temperatures, and so, despite our full stomachs, we quickly found a good rhythm. The morning took us along pleasant, winding mountain roads to Marina Poseto, where we enjoyed a relaxing coffee by the sea with a view. Peter and Max were the first victims of the day, succumbing to sweet temptation right there and then; filled cornettos were a must, and a dusting of powdered sugar came free of charge. From here, lacking alternatives, we had to take a short stretch of the highway, which unfortunately also had some roadworks, but this didn't last too long, and we soon turned off towards the hinterland, more precisely towards Craco. And what a spectacular landscape it was: barren hills, yet at the same time, wildflowers in bloom. It all reminded me somehow of enormous sea dunes. It's therefore not surprising that Craco had to be abandoned after several landslides and a strong earthquake in 1980. And so, the medieval town is preserved for us today in a very authentic way as a 'lost place' – a silent witness to history. The area around the town is understandably sparsely populated, and so we had the pleasure of following the empty country road through springtime landscapes. Simply breathtaking. Our lunch stop wasn't far away, and after a short drive, we stopped in Ferrandina. Right on the market square in the old town, we found a lovely modern restaurant in an old vaulted cellar. The food was excellent, and we lingered for a while. Our destination for the day, however, was Matera, and we were looking forward to exploring the old town with its famous cave dwellings. So we set off, and after a short drive, Sebastian welcomed us at the hotel.
Today we're heading to the Adriatic! A short but lovely half-day trip. We'll start with a wonderful breakfast, and then head toward Alberobello to see the trulli. By the sea in Polignano a Mare, we'll enjoy some delicious seafood specialties while taking in the view of the blue Adriatic. Absolutely beautiful! From there, we'll head straight back to Matera via smaller roads.
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and we have now reached the last day of travel. Today we took a short route to Bisceglie, but of course not without enjoying a few more curves and visiting our last highlight of the day. We left Matera as we had entered, but after a short time we left the familiar path and turned into the hinterland. Here we were able to drive beautiful curved lines again and marvel at Puglia's rural life. We made our coffee stop after we were able to test our adventure bikes on an adventurous route. The small town of Irsina impressed with its beautiful view and cozy coffee shop. We then went past Gravina to Castle de Monte, where we also stopped for lunch. The castle is located on a hill from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of the surrounding area and so the majority of the group didn't miss the opportunity to take a digestive walk around the castle complex. From here we headed towards the sea, along small roads through olive groves and vineyards. And before we knew it, we reached our hotel. A successful last trip and everyone reached the destination, full of unforgettable memories, new impressions and lots of stories to tell at home. Thanks for the great time and hopefully see you soon!