CAS2601 - Pearls of the Adriatic Sea

Day one in Split was all about arrivals, first impressions, and growing excitement. Throughout the day the last guests checked into the hotel while others headed out to explore Split’s beautiful Old Town. From the ancient Diocletian’s Palace to the lively waterfront promenade, the city immediately worked its Mediterranean charm. Even the tour guides joined the adventure, discovering some surprisingly creative ice cream flavors hidden in the narrow stone streets. Throughout the town and even at the hotel, some of us enjoyed some rather unexpected birdwatching. In the evening, the whole group came together for the welcome briefing before the motorcycles were handed over which ended in a bit of bike talk. Over dinner, one thing was clear: the anticipation was building, and everyone was ready to hit the road the next morning.

Today was our first official riding day, and what a fantastic start to the adventure it turned out to be! After a hearty breakfast at our hotel in Split and a short morning briefing, we couldn’t wait to hit the road. To keep the ride flowing smoothly through the Split traffic and to allow everyone to enjoy the day at their own pace, the group split into two riding groups. One group headed out with Rubin, while the other followed Philipp. After leaving Split behind us, the roads immediately reminded us why Croatia is such a beloved motorcycle destination. Spectacular coastal routes, lovely villages, and endless Adriatic views accompanied us throughout the morning. In fact, Philipp loved the village of Omis so much, he wanted to pass through it three times 😊. One of the first major highlights was the breathtaking Cetina Gorge. The dramatic canyon scenery and winding roads offered countless opportunities to stop, admire the views, and capture some memorable photos. Continuing south, we made our way to the ferry crossing from the mainland to Hvar Island. The crossing itself was a pleasure. The sea was calm, the ferry ride exceptionally smooth, and the 30-minute journey provided a relaxing break while we enjoyed the beautiful Adriatic scenery. Upon arriving in Sućuraj, part of the group stopped for lunch at a charming seaside restaurant. Fresh local seafood was on the menu, and the grilled octopus—one of the region's specialties—proved to be an absolute favorite. Sitting by the water, enjoying delicious food and the Mediterranean atmosphere, was the perfect way to recharge before the afternoon ride. The road across Hvar Island offered yet another highlight. Twisting through vineyards, lavender fields, and picturesque villages, it showcased the island's unique beauty at every turn. Eventually we arrived at our hotel, where a refreshing pool and an excellent dinner were waiting for us. But for the two Philip(p)s, the riding day wasn't quite over yet. Deciding they hadn't spent enough time in the saddle, they headed up to the historic Napoleonic Fortress above Hvar Town. The reward was a spectacular panoramic view over the harbor, the Pakleni Islands, and the surrounding Adriatic Sea. The perfect ending to a wonderful day came in the charming old town of Hvar. While enjoying some well-deserved ice cream, we strolled through the narrow streets and waterfront promenade. Above us, a beautiful moon illuminated the evening sky, and several attempts were made to capture its magic on camera—a fitting finale to an unforgettable first day on the road. Tomorrow, the Adriatic adventure continues!

From Hvar to Dubrovnik on Two Wheels Route: Hvar → ferry → Ston → Pelješac Bridge → Dubrovnik Hvar — the island on two wheels The day starts the way every good riding day should: salt in the air and an open road ahead. Hvar is the fourth largest island in Croatia, and you feel it — there's enough space to truly let go. From Hvar town, the road winds through a landscape of olive trees, lavender fields and dry stone walls that have divided these fields since the Greek settlers arrived some 2,400 years ago. Those walls are still standing, unchanged. The riding itself is wonderful. Winding roads with ever-changing views: one moment you're looking out over the Adriatic Sea, the next you're cutting through the dry, rocky interior of the island. The eastern part of Hvar is almost completely uninhabited — tiny villages of two streets, the occasional secluded cove, and a kind of quiet you can only find on an island. The road won't let you go too fast, and that's a good thing — because otherwise you'd miss all of this. Ston — lunch between the walls Arriving on the mainland, Ston is the first real stop — and what a stop it is. We enjoy a wonderful lunch in the centre, just a stone's throw from the medieval walls that stretch across the hills. A glass of local wine, the sun on your face. This is exactly why you get on a motorcycle. The Pelješac Bridge After Ston comes the bridge that changed this part of Croatia forever. The Pelješac Bridge is 2.4 kilometres long, sits 55 metres above the water, and was built by a Chinese state company — funded with European money. Before it opened in 2022, everyone driving to Dubrovnik had to pass through Bosnia & Herzegovina, complete with passport control and long queues in peak season. That detour is now history. On a motorcycle, you feel the bridge the way it was meant to be felt: wind, sea on both sides, and no toll. Arriving in Dubrovnik After the bridge, the road continues winding south along the coast. The bends get tighter, the views get bigger. And then, suddenly, Dubrovnik appears before you — its white city walls glowing in the sun, the Adriatic so blue it stops you in your tracks. There is no better arrival.

From Dubrovnik to the Bay of Kotor Today started bright and early with an early breakfast, allowing us to get a head start on one of the highlights of the Adriatic coast: Dubrovnik. Beating the tourist crowds proved to be a great decision, giving everyone the chance to experience the city's unique atmosphere in a more relaxed setting. The group split up according to their interests. One part set off to walk the famous city walls, taking in the spectacular views over the Adriatic Sea and the terracotta rooftops of the Old Town. Others made their way to Dubrovnik's legendary basketball court, enjoying the stunning view and soaking up the local vibe. Whether exploring centuries of history, admiring the stunning architecture, or searching for familiar scenes from Game of Thrones, everyone thoroughly enjoyed their morning in this remarkable city. After our visit, we returned to the hotel, geared up, and finally mounted our motorcycles. As we left Dubrovnik behind, Rubin had one more surprise waiting for us. Just outside the city limits, hidden away at a secret viewpoint, he had prepared a fantastic picnic. With delicious food like burek and pork cracklings, great company, and an unforgettable view overlooking Dubrovnik's iconic "Red Keep," it was the perfect way to start our riding day. Refreshed and ready for the road, we continued northeastward. After the picnic, we crossed into Bosnia and Herzegovina before continuing towards Montenegro. Both border crossings went smoothly and with little delay, allowing us to enjoy the ride and the constantly changing scenery. The first kilometers in Montenegro immediately delivered one of the great highlights of the tour: the magnificent Bay of Kotor. Following the coastline, surrounded by dramatic mountains and sparkling blue water, we made our way to our destination for the evening, the beautiful Hotel Huma Kotor. Waiting for us upon arrival was a well-deserved reward: an ice-cold boot beer. A perfect ending to a fantastic day on the road and yet another reason to raise our glasses. Three cheers for Rubin!

Rest Day, Riding Day – The Best of Both Worlds in Kotor Today was officially a rest day, which meant there was no early alarm clock and everyone could enjoy a slightly more relaxed start to the morning. Those who happened to look out over the Bay of Kotor during the night were treated to a spectacular sight. A huge cruise ship had quietly entered the bay under the cover of darkness and was illuminated against the surrounding mountains. Seeing such a massive vessel navigating the narrow waters of one of Europe's most beautiful bays was truly impressive. After another excellent breakfast at the hotel, one group decided that a rest day is sometimes best enjoyed from the saddle of a motorcycle. Leaving Kotor, we were immediately greeted by the famous morning traffic chaos. Cars, buses, delivery vans, and tourists all seemed to have the same idea at the same time. Fortunately, a quick detour allowed us to escape the stop-and-go traffic and soon we found ourselves on the spectacular mountain road climbing high above the Bay of Kotor. What followed was motorcycling at its finest. Endless switchbacks, almost no traffic, perfect pavement, and breathtaking scenery. The smiles inside the helmets grew wider with every corner. One particular tour guide on an MV Agusta Veloce appeared to be enjoying himself especially much as the road twisted higher and higher into the mountains and the bike was sounding like Pavarotti singing Metallica. At the summit, we stopped to admire the magnificent panorama of the Bay of Kotor far below us. The combination of steep mountains, sparkling water, and tiny villages scattered along the shoreline never fails to impress. From there, the adventure continued through the stunning Lovćen National Park. The road wound its way through rocky mountain landscapes and dense forests before descending toward the coast. About halfway down, we paused for a well-deserved coffee break, giving everyone another opportunity to soak in the scenery and share stories from the morning's ride. After passing through the impressive coastal town of Budva, we followed the road back toward Kotor. Unfortunately, a massive traffic jam awaited us. Luckily, local knowledge is one of the many advantages of having experienced tour guides. A clever alternative route allowed us to sneak past the congestion and return to the hotel by around 2:00 p.m., leaving plenty of time to enjoy the swimming pool, relax on the beach, or simply sit back with a cold drink while looking out over the Adriatic. Meanwhile, the second group embraced the "rest" part of the rest day and headed into the beautiful old town of Kotor. Entering through the famous Sea Gate, they quickly discovered why Kotor is often affectionately called "The City of Cats." Feline residents seemed to be everywhere—lounging in squares, sleeping on stone walls, and casually supervising the flow of visitors through the medieval streets. The group spent the morning wandering through the narrow alleys, charming plazas, and historic corners of this UNESCO-listed town before enjoying a leisurely stroll back to the hotel. The relaxed atmosphere put everyone in the perfect mood for an afternoon at the beach or by the pool. Today offered the best of both worlds: fantastic riding for those eager to explore Montenegro's mountain roads and a relaxing day by the sea for those wanting to slow down and enjoy Kotor's unique charm. Tomorrow the adventure continues as we leave Montenegro behind and ride into Bosnia and Herzegovina, heading for the historic city of Mostar. 🐢those who know, know ;)

From the Bay of Kotor to Rain-Soaked Mostar or "The day we almost made it dry" We started the day with our daily briefing over breakfast on the terrace of our hotel, enjoying the beautiful views across the Bay of Kotor. While the scenery was spectacular, the weather forecast for our ride to Mostar looked far less inviting. With dark clouds predicted for later in the day, everyone made sure their rain gear was packed and easily accessible before we set off. Soon we were winding our way through the dense morning traffic around the bay, gradually leaving Montenegro behind. After crossing the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina, we turned north at Trebinje and continued through the countryside until it was time for lunch. A charming roadside restaurant provided the perfect stop, and the menu left no doubt about one thing: this region takes its meat seriously. From grilled specialties to hearty local dishes, there was something for every carnivore in the group. Refueled and ready to ride, we continued into the dark karst mountains of eastern Bosnia. The dramatic landscape offered a completely different character from the Adriatic coast we had been following over the previous days. Along the way we stopped at the Gacko Power Plant for a few photos—and, just as importantly, to finally pull on our rain gear. The skies had been growing steadily darker, and it was clear that the forecast was slowly becoming reality. As we approached Mostar, it still looked as though we might just sneak into town before the rain arrived. Even at our final fuel stop the roads remained dry. But only minutes later the heavens opened. What followed was a proper Balkan downpour. Within moments visibility dropped dramatically and rivers of water flowed through the streets. Despite the conditions, the group pressed on and successfully reached our destination: a beautiful medieval-style hotel right in the heart of Mostar's historic center. After drying off and changing into more comfortable clothes, everyone gathered in the restaurant to enjoy well-earned local beers and other refreshing drinks. The evening quickly turned into a relaxed social affair, with plenty of stories from the road being exchanged. Some of us were introduced to a card game called Farao, taught by Rubin. To this day, however, there remains some debate about whether the game actually has official rules or whether Rubin was simply inventing them as the evening progressed. At around 9:00 PM the rain finally stopped. With the streets drying out and the old town illuminated by evening lights, several members of the group decided to head out and explore Mostar. The famous old bridge and the atmospheric alleys of the historic center proved to be well worth the late-night stroll. Tomorrow another border crossing awaits as we leave Bosnia and Herzegovina behind and head back into Croatia. Our destination will be the beautiful coastal city of Zadar, promising more stunning roads, spectacular scenery, and new adventures along the Adriatic coast.

From Mostar to Zadar – The Long Road North Today was the longest riding day of our Adriatic adventure, taking us from the historic city of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina all the way to the Croatian coast and our destination for the night: Zadar. The day began with our usual morning briefing after breakfast at the charming Kriva Ćuprija Hotel, nestled right in the heart of Mostar's medieval old town. Before departure, some of our riders found it surprisingly difficult to leave—not because of the motorcycles, but because of a particularly friendly feline resident who quickly became everyone's new best friend. With the previous day's rain having limited our time in Mostar, we made a collective decision to adjust the schedule slightly. Instead of rushing away early, we traded a later arrival in Zadar for some additional time to explore the old town. It proved to be a great choice. We enjoyed the beautiful views of the famous Old Bridge, wandered through the colorful market streets next to the hotel, and soaked up the unique atmosphere of this fascinating crossroads of cultures. Eventually it was time to saddle up. Dividing into two riding groups, we pointed our motorcycles northwest and began our long journey through the Bosnian and Croatian highlands. The route delivered exactly what riders dream of: endless curves, spectacular scenery, and ever-changing landscapes. In fact, despite it being well into the riding season, we even encountered snow while passing through one of the national park regions—a surprising sight after the warm Mediterranean coast we had enjoyed just days earlier. Around lunchtime we arrived at a fantastic picnic spot overlooking Prološko Blato Lake. The picnic came with a special theme: “What would you do if you had to organize a picnic and then realized it's a church holiday and all the shops are closed?” Fortunately, necessity breeds creativity. Several local bakeries were still open, and a nearby family farm supplied delicious sweet treats and fresh butter. The result was a wonderfully authentic Balkan picnic that everyone thoroughly enjoyed, accompanied by magnificent views over the lake. After lunch, both groups continued the second half of the "Road to Zadar." More sweeping mountain roads, remote villages, and stunning scenery accompanied us as we steadily made our way toward the Adriatic once again. At approximately 7:00 PM, after a full day in the saddle, we finally rolled into Zadar. Waiting for us at the hotel was the perfect reward for the longest riding day of the tour: a well-deserved boot beer, shared among friends while recounting the highlights of an unforgettable journey from Mostar to the Croatian coast. Tomorrow brings another day of adventure, but tonight we celebrate a great ride, good company, and another memorable chapter of our Adriatic motorcycle tour.

A Journey Back into the Cold War – Zeljava Airbase and an Evening in Zadar Today was a little different. While some of the group enjoyed a relaxed day around Zadar, a special customer request gave seven Riders the perfect excuse for one more motorcycle adventure. Our destination: the legendary Željava Air Base, one of the largest underground military airfields ever built in Europe. The plan sounded simple enough: a 300-kilometer round trip into the Croatian hinterland. Thanks to surprisingly empty roads, the first 150 kilometers disappeared beneath our wheels almost effortlessly. Flowing roads, beautiful scenery, and hardly any traffic made for a fantastic ride, reminding us once again why motorcycle travel is such a special way to experience a country. Arriving at Željava, we first took time for an essential rider ritual: coffee. (For a life without coffee is... depresso!) Fortified with caffeine, we began exploring the enormous Cold War relic. Built deep inside Mount Plješevica during the former Yugoslav era, Željava was designed to withstand a direct nuclear strike and once housed fighter aircraft, command centers, radar systems, fuel depots, and accommodation facilities hidden inside kilometers of underground tunnels. At its peak, it was one of the most sophisticated military installations in Europe and reportedly cost billions of dollars to construct. Walking through the dark, cavernous hangars today feels like stepping directly into a forgotten chapter of history. The concrete walls, massive blast doors, and endless tunnel system still tell stories of a time when East and West watched each other nervously across the Iron Curtain. Of course, no visit to Željava is complete without the mandatory photograph beneath the famous MiG-21 shaped entrance to the caverns. Cameras clicked, smiles appeared, and memories were made. Afterward, we enjoyed an easy ride down the legendary KLEK 505 runway, imagining the days when supersonic fighters thundered into the skies from this very spot. Then came another surprise of the day. The modest kiosk at the airbase served burgers that far exceeded anyone's expectations. Sometimes the best meals appear in the most unexpected places, and these cheeseburgers were absolutely top-notch. Before heading back, we stopped for one final group photo in front of the Dakota DC-3/C-47 aircraft at the entrance. The plane had been a gift from the United States to Tito. It was the perfect ending to our exploration of this fascinating place. The ride back to Zadar was easy and relaxed, combining winding local roads with a stretch of highway. Back at the hotel, riding gear was exchanged for lighter evening attire, and after a well-earned drink at the bar, we headed into Zadar's beautiful old town. One of the highlights was visiting the famous Sea Organ. The strange and haunting sounds created by the waves rolling through pipes hidden in the stone steps never fail to fascinate visitors. As if that wasn't enough entertainment for one evening, we were lucky enough to witness a genuine Croatian wedding celebration. Complete with a parade, flags, bengal fires, music, and enthusiastic guests, it was a spectacular display of local culture and celebration. Dinner was served in a charming little restaurant hidden away in one of the old town's narrow side alleys. The food was delicious, the atmosphere relaxed, and the conversations flowed as easily as the local wine and beer. Later, we strolled back along the waterfront toward the hotel, reflecting on the day's adventures and discussing everything from motorcycles and history to future travel plans. Tomorrow marks our final riding day of the tour. As I sit here writing today's blog, I must admit that a slight feeling of sadness is beginning to creep in. The group has shared so many wonderful experiences over the past days that it is hard to believe we are already approaching the end of our Adriatic adventure. I have never been particularly fond of goodbyes.

The Final Ride – From Zadar to Split Every great journey eventually reaches its final chapter, and today was ours. It was the last riding day of our Adriatic adventure as we made our way from Zadar to Split, where everyone would soon head off in different directions and continue their own journeys. We left Zadar with high expectations—especially for those still hoping to spot one of the famous sea turtles. Sadly, no turtles made an appearance that morning. But Dalmatia had plenty of other surprises waiting for us. Our first memorable stop was Roški Slap, where we enjoyed a relaxed coffee break with the lake in front of us and the waterfalls providing the perfect backdrop. A few adventurous souls even ended up with wet feet while exploring the area. It was one of those magical places where everyone lingered a little longer than planned, simply because nobody wanted to leave. From there, we continued to Visovac, making a brief stop to admire the tiny monastery island in the middle of the Krka River. Floating peacefully on the water like a painting, it radiated an incredible sense of tranquility. Sometimes the quietest places leave the biggest impression. By lunchtime we reached Knin, where pizza was exactly what everyone needed after a fantastic morning on the motorcycles. Simple, delicious, and thoroughly deserved, it gave us the perfect opportunity to relax before the final stretch of the day. Our last scenic stop was the beautiful Kovačić Waterfall—the perfect grand finale. We switched off the engines, wandered around with our cameras, and took photo after photo until everyone was satisfied. Peaceful, picturesque, and surrounded by nature, it was exactly the kind of ending a ride like this deserves. Meanwhile, life in the support van was anything but quiet. Rubin entertained Philipp with songs and enthusiastic whistling for much of the journey. And then, in a twist nobody expected, the van crew actually spotted a turtle on the way to Split. Naturally, Philipp immediately decided he was going to ride it :) For the Bikers it was then straight on to Split—helmets off, engines silent, warm exhausts crackeling. Another unforgettable riding day complete. In the evening, we all gathered one last time to share our personal highlights of the week. As everyone told their favorite stories, there was a wonderful feeling of community in the room. It is truly amazing how just one week can turn complete strangers into friends, connected by incredible roads, unforgettable scenery, and countless shared experiences. Thank you all so much for riding with us. We had an amazing time together, and on behalf of Edelweiss Bike Travel, we wish each of you safe travels wherever your next route may lead. Until we meet again—keep the shiny side up!