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Adventure Patagonia APA2001

Tuesday, February 11, 2020 | Domenico Schiano Moriello / Marc Adamiak | North and South America

Follow the blog of our trip to the "Fin del Mundo"!

Day 20, Rio Grande - Punta Arenas

Our last riding day! For the sixth and last time we crossed the border, and for the second time the Strait of Magellan. Mostly straight and "boring" roads today, so after crossing the border we went for a little detour on gravel to see the penguins at the "Pinguino Rey" colony. After that, straight to the ferry, lunch on the continent and then again stright into Punta Arenas, where we had to turn-in the bikes (goodbye beauties!). Around 5000 km of an unforgettable trip, sometimes though but always worth it! Goodbye to everybody! Ride safe!!!

Another group picture before leaving Rio Grande
At the Pinguino Rey colony
These penguins are half the size of a man!
Observation point
Crossing the strait of Magellan
In Punta Arenas we had to return the bikes
Our restaurant for tonight
Goodbye folks!

Day 19, Ushuaia - Rio Grande

After having reached World's end, it's time to start backtracking to backtrack the way we came and start going to our final destination. The direct route to Rio Grande is only around 200 km, so there was time enough for a side trip on a curvy and narrow gravel road to Puerto Harberton. After that, back on main road, we passed again by Tolhuin where we stopped for a coffee and light lunch before finally reaching Rio Grande.

On the way to Puerto Harberton
The wind can be really strong here... but today we were lucky!
Some meditation
Puerto Williams on the chilean side of the Beagle channel
A tyre repair shop in a old bus!
Arrived in Rio Grande

Day 18, Fin del Mundo!!!

Only a short ride today, to the end of the "Ruta 3", and to the southernmost post office in the world... and at lunch time we were already back in Ushuaia. Afternoon free (after all, it's a rest day!), some walking, shopping and a good dinner!

arrived at the end of Ruta 3
in the National Park of the "End of the World"
The southernmost Post Office
Walking through Ushuaia

Day 17, Cerro Sombrero - Ushuaia

A long day, including border crossing from Chile to Argentina, and fortunately the weather was good, without much side wind (this would have made the ride quite though!). We stopped in Rio Grande for gasoline and then reached Tolhuin for a good piece of pastry. Finally some curves again after that, as we hit Paso Garibaldi before finally descending to Ushuaia. Fin del Mundo, we have made it!!!

Road blocked!
Border control
Entering Argentina
In Tolhuin
Paso Garibaldi
Ushuaia, we made it!

Day 15, Torres del Paine National Park

Today we went for a loop in the Torres del Paine National Park, definitely one of the highlights of this tour... and the reason why we are spending two nights in Puerto Natales! The weather didn't look so good in the morning and the sky was always cloudy, but luckily there was no wind and it didn't rain, so we enjoied a great ride through the park and had lunch just undet the famous towers (torres) del Paine! Enjoy the pictures!

Approaching the National Park
The equally famous Cuernos (horns)
Lovely spot for our coffee break
The Salto Grande waterfall
Lunch in the Hotel del Paine
A lot of riding fun today!
curious foxes did not mind our presence
Back in Puerto Natales
A well deserved good dinner!

Day 14, El Calafate - Puerto Natales

Let's go back to Chile, where the magnificent Torres del Paine National Park is awaiting us. Back on the Ruta 40, we left El Calafate on a cloudy morning and the clouds became more and more threatehing, so we did not use the unpaved road to reach Tapi Aike, where we had a quick break and refilled our bikes. Border crossing in Cancha Carrera did not take long time and we had a good rest and a light lunch in Cierro Castillo. A light lunch because in Puerto Natales there is the southernmost original Neapolitan Pizzeria in the world... and that's where we went for dinner!

Threathening clouds in the morning!
At Tapi Aike, a place with just one house and one gas station!
From Tapi Aike we could already spot the Torres del Paine
Entering Chile
Pizzeria Napoli!
Enjoy dinner!

Day 13, Perito Moreno Glacier

We are spending two nights in El Calafate, and not without a reason! One of the most spectacular places on Earth is just a few kilometres away, the magnificent glacier Perito Moreno! So after a short ride we entered the park and reached the glacier viewpoint, and after that we also went on a short cruise to admire the impressive ice wall from the lake and from a shorter distance. Back on land, some decided to go for another ride (never tired!) and some back to El Calafate, where there was also the chance to visit the Glaciarum Museum. A good day!

The Perito Moreno glacier as we approached it
Impressive view!
Kilometres of ice!
Bikes parked, ready for the boat tour
To have an idea of the size....
Little icebergs
The Glaciarum museum
Ready for the 3D movie about the park
Almost back to El Calafate

Day 12, El Chalten - El Calafate

Finally a more relaxing day, completely on pavement and with less wind! So, after a break at "La Leona" we reached El Calafate quite early, went to buy the boat tickets for tomorrow (stay tuned!) and had a light lunch before going to the hotel. Afternoon free and night out today!

Mount Fitz Roy was s little bit shy today
Leaving El Chalten
Condors flying high
La Leona river
La Leona, an historical stop on the way.

Day 11, Estancia la Angostura - El Chalten

Back on the gravel road, for a shorter stretch today... but the road was in bad conditions and we also had to fight the famous patagonian wind! We also struggled a bit with the gasoline because in Tres Lagos the gas station was empty... but we made it!Tonight we sleep in El Chalten, at the feet of the imposing and magnificent mount Fitz Roy, what a view from our rooms when the sky clears up!

Early morning in Estancia La Angostura
Some gravel to face also today...
No gasoline! Fortunately we have some reserve tanks!
Aisla and Jeff
The gas station of El Chalten has a huge collection of stickers

Day 10, Puerto Bertrand - Estancia La Angostura

This was one of the most beautiful and scenic days, but also one of the toughest! After breakfast we rode through Parque Patagonia over Paso Roballos, where many Guanacos were welcoming us, and then crossed the border again into Argentina. After around 220 km of gravel (sometimes quite deep!) we reached the Ruta 40 and stopped for a break in Bajo Caracoles. But the day had not ended, still 150 km on asphalt and another 40 on gravel to reach the Estancia La Angostura, a farm in the middle of nowhere where we will spend the night!

First photo stop
Road maintenance...
Taking the intersection to Paso Roballos
a friendly guanaco
At the border control
Entering Argentina
Chickens repairing from the wind
Bajo Caracoles, fortunately they have gasoline!
Arrived at Estancia La Angostura

Day 9. Rest Day Puerto Bertrand

A few options for today: sleep in and relax at the lodge, go for a ride to Chile Chico, horseback riding... and so on... and everybody did something different and had a good day. And in the evening a typical patagonian dinner with lamb. Enjoy the pictures!

Ride along lake General Carrera, to Chile Chico
Arrived in Chile Chico
This truek stopped just in time
Somebody enjoied a horseback ride...
some simply a sauna!
Dinner almost ready

Day 8. Coyhaique - Puerto Bertrand

Definitely a day to remember! We left coyhaique on a chilly morning and rode straight to Villa Cierro Castillo where we took our first break and said goodbye to.the pavement! We reached then Puerto Tranquilo on the General Carrera lake where, after lunch, we went to visit the Marble Cathedral, an amazing rock formation. From there on, a fantastic ride along the lake took us to the lodge where we are spending the next two nights.

The Cierro Castillo mount
Conny und Martin
Arrived at the General Carrera lake
Boat tour at the Marble Cathedral near Puerto Tranquilo

Day 7, Puyuhuapi - Coyhaique

The weather did not look very good when whe left Puyuhuapi in the morning. Back on the Carretera Austral, we had to face the tricky but spectacular "Costa Queulat", a mountain pass completely unpaved... and with a lot of hairpins surrounded by lush vegetation! But, once we completed it, the weather suddenly changed and we could enjoy a great ride in the afternoon, after lunch, until we reached Coyahique, where we are spending the night.

Jeff and Aisla on the Queulat pass
First relaxing break in Villa Amengual
Peter, Richard and Jeff
Back on the Carretera Austral, so good that many sections are still unpaved!
Marc and Domenico
A walk through Coyhaique
Dinner is almost ready!
Buen provecho!

Day 6, Futalefu - Puyuhuapi

Back on the Chilean side of the Andes, the scenery changed again: rock walls, waterfalls and rainforest-like vegetation. Amazing how quickly everything can change! After we came down from Futalefu to Villa Santa Lucia, we entered the famous "Carretera Austral", that parellels the border to Argentina for around 1200 km. Some kilometres on asphalt, good for a little rest before taking a loop to Valle Mirta (gravel again!) and having lunch in La Junta. Futalefu was not too far from there and we reached it in time for a good rest!

A bridge on the Futalefu river
Stay far from the water, very strong current!
The Futalefu river is a paradise for rafting.
On the Carretera Austral, another beautiful bridge
And another bridge on the Valle Mirta loop...
Today's ride was dedicated to bridges, apparently!

Day 5, El Bolson - Futalefu

Not a very long ride today, but simply beautiful (also the weather helped us!) and with a lot of gravel roads first through the famous !Los Alerces" National Park in Argentina and then reaching the Futalefu Pass to enter Chile again. Enjoy the pictures.

Arrived in Cholila
The place where Butch Cassidy used to live for 4 years from 1901 to 1905
Through the Los Alerces National Park
So much fun
Lunch stop
Reaching the Futalefu pass
Our hotel in Futalefu

Day 4, San Martin de los Andes - El Bolson

Today we spent the whole day on the famous Ruta 40, that runs along the eastern side of the Andes for more than 5000 km. This section of the Ruta 40 is also known as the "Camino de los Siete Lagos" (Road of the seven lakes), and is passing by countless lakes and rivers. After a long stop in Villa La Angostura, we were ready to head to El Bolson, but before we had to face some traffic around Bariloche (t's high season!).

Photo stop on the Camino de los Siete Lagos
Modern and Classic horses
Arrived in El Bolson

Day 3, Pucon - San Martin de los Andes

Leaving Pucon, we rode through the Villarica National Park until we approached the Argentinean border
on the pass road of Mamuil Malal. The imposive Lanin Volcano is the landmark of this area. Once across the border, the landscape changed, became more dry and we started descending to the pampas. Welcome to Argentina! After lunch in Junin the los Andes, we decided to go for an extra loop (unpaved, of course!) to the lake Lolog before finally reaching San Martin de los Andes.

On the way to the Chile-Argentina border
Karl and Hans
Welcome to Argentina
Some action with volcan Lanin in the background
Welcome to San Martin de los Andes, on the famous Ruta 40!
Dinner out in San Martin

Day 2, Osorno - Pucon

The first ride of the tour started a little bit late, many bikes to hand over! Once we were ready, we used the highway to go northward to Tres Lagos. After a good lunch (with a view!) in Panguipulli, we were ready to reach Pucon in time, but there was some protest going on and the road was blocked, so we had to turn around and find an alternative route. Well, that's part of the adventure!

Ready to go!
A strike made us turn around and find an alternative road.
Volcano Villarica

Day 1, Welcome to Osorno, Chile!

Another great adventure is about to begin, everybody made it to Osorno and the bikes are ready. Follow us on this 5000 km tour!

The artist at work
Welcome briefing
First dinner together
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Add a comment Rate this post
Manuel Marabese
Monday, February 3, 2020 at 10:11

Great tour and photos Domenico!
So many good memories from my Patagonia Adventure... It's a though tour but really incredible!
Domenico Schiano Moriello
Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:53

Thank you Manuel! You are right, it's though but really worth it! Greetings from Ushuaia - Fin del Mundo!
Dietmar Gemsa
Tuesday, January 21, 2020 at 15:41

Dear Domenico, too bad that we don't make this Trip together. Beginning of Dezember i got a big problem with my Heart (Aorta/Aneurysma). I have to stand back of my booking.I wish you and the others biker a good and save journey. Dietmar
Domenico Schiano Moriello
Friday, January 24, 2020 at 12:29

Hi Dietmar! So sorry to read about that, I hope you will recover soon and I also hope that one day you will come on this tour, it's a great experience!
Tuesday, January 21, 2020 at 15:30

Wow great pictures Have a wonderful tour!
Domenico Schiano Moriello
Friday, January 24, 2020 at 12:28

Danke Sarah!


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