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Let's go to "fin del mundo" - Adventure Patagonia

Friday, November 2, 2012 | Florian Schmidbauer | North and South America

Imagine having ridden almost 5,000 kilometres through the southern parts of Chile and Argentina. Imagine having experienced any kind of road surface from freshly paved asphalt roads to tricky gravel roads and sandy tracks. Imagine scenery changing several times a day and showing you everything from wide open farmland to dense forest and lakes being so colourful that one could think nature has been photoshoped.

Imagine being told about cold, rain and wind being so strong that it could just blow you off your motorcycle and facing sunshine and a nice breeze instead. And imagine a group of bikers from all over the world, who did not know each other at the beginning of the trip but would get friends in a minute to share all this beautiful moments and to help each other out of the dust.

All that and so much more weˋve had the pleasure to experience and even if we will tell as much as we can to friends and family at home most of our memories and emotions will just be saved in our hearts because some things are just too incredible that words and pictures canˋt do justice to what we have witnessed on this once of a lifetime motorcycle tour to Patagonia!

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DAY 18: Rio Grande - Punta Arenas

It's the very last day of our motorcycle tour and the most disappointing one too. Not that you get us wrong - the day's been beautiful and memorable. But having the last day of such a trip HAS to be disappointing.

After taking off in the morning we get to ride the last 110 km of off-road. And still, after having seen so much gravel the road stays challenging and attention is needed.

Good that we have enough time to have a little rest after lunch. Even the youngest rider in the group is exhausted after 18 days in the saddle...

Once arriving in Punta Arenas we have a few more minutes of navigating our bikes through the buzzling city traffic. Is it really over now? No one in the group can believe that this amazing tour finally came to an end and similar to the Gaucho we've seen earlier today I am driving home my sheep and make sure all of them return safe and sound.

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DAY 17: Ushuaia - Rio Grande

So having reached the end of the world one could think the adventure was over right? Not right, even on our last two days back to Chile - in order to turn in our bikes - we've got plenty of great riding and fascinating scenery.

The first piece leads us direction north all through Ushuaia. Wonderful trees, cleared fields and some fascinating views out to the sea accompany our way.

And even if we've been on this road before we still stop and take some last pictures.

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DAY 16: Ushuaia

Going all the way from Osorno to Ushuaia we thought we would deserve a day of ˋrestˋ. Of course, having a day of rest on this tour means fascinating riding and some unforgettable moments being involved.

First stop: Estancia Haberton - here weˋre going to do a boat ride to visit a penguin colony on an island close by.

Theyˋre so cute - we wish we could take one home as a souvenir.

Another two hours of probably the dustiest riding weˋve had on this tour later we reach the end of Ruta 3 - the famous picture below just had to be taken!

What a tour!

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DAY 15: Cerro Sombrero - Ushuaia

When asking the group how the end of the world would look like we got all the different kind of answers. Some said the landscape would get flat and boring and some warned from an ˋedgeˋ we should not run over with our bikes...

Well, that we would see enormous mountains on our way to Ushuaia that is something nobody expected.

Johannes does not seem too disappointed by having another few kilometres of great curves up and down those mountains.

So here we are, ladies and gentlemen, may I have your attention: Almost 5,000 kilometres on asphalt and all kind of gravel and numerous potholes and dusty moments later we finally reach Ushuaia! There will be a party going on tonight to celebrate that moment...

and of course to cheers to the birthday of our beloved group member Richard! Congratulations!!

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DAY 14: Puerto Natales - Cerro Sombrero

Our ride to Cerro Sombrero starts with a nice coffee stop at a tiny little coffee shop just next to the route. Weˋve already seen a group of bikers coming the other way so we guess, the end of the world canˋt be that far.

Strenghtening ourselves with tons of coffee and cake we soon move on since we still have some hours of riding today...

And of course, we should not miss the ferry taking us over to fireland. Ushuaia we come!

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DAY 13: Puerto Natales

What we are going to experience today is something very special and a day belonging to the TOP 3 of the total trip - our ride through Torres del Paine National Park...

 Luckily the ride today starts with some soft off-roading along wide straightaheads and with enough time to look at the fascinating scenery around.

After about two hours of riding we reach the entry gate of the national park. The view awaiting us is so breathtaking and even days after Jörn is still smiling about that wonderful kodak moment.

 71 kilometres to go until we meet for lunch - it's actually the shortest 71 kilometres any person in the group has ever done.

 Later in the afternoon the riding is getting more demanding. A rugged route with hairpin gravel roads characterizes our ride now.

 

 And even if the ride takes all our concentration we do not forget to stop and to explore the flora, fauna and animals in Torres del Paine.

 It's been a full day of off-road and one of the most demanding and fascinating ones too. Riding a motorcycle through the national park and enjoying the ride as well as the nature and scenery around is the perfect combination for an unforgettable day - we love the dust!

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DAY 12: El Calafate - Puerto Natales

 Shortly after leaving the buzzling tourist town of El Calafate we switch on our ipods and lean back on our bikes. The wide, curvy roads we take are just a good warm up for the day.

At our first picture stop already we directly run into a bus of Argentinian tourists. You better have your camera ready that's going to be a longer photo shooting.

 A good relaxed ride later and after having had some coffee and picture stops we finally get to see the first official road sign for Ruta 40 before we arrive in Puerto Natales.

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DAY 11: El Calafate

Ladies and gentlemen, today we´re gonna present you another amazing highlight on our trip. For sure you will have heard about Perito Moreno already? Forget everything you ever heard and see and come here yourself to have a look on this spectacular glacier.

Located about 70 kilometres from El Calafate we at first hold ourselves back and enjoy the number of twisties and turns leading up to the glacier.

And then - all of a sudden Perito Moreno becomes visible at the horizon. Every bike rider should get a warning riding up there - the first glance on that glacier can just blow you off your bike.

Spending about 4 hours walking around Perito Moreno we get to see (almost) every part of it. Some of us are waiting in silence for some pieces to break off and fall - others can´t stand still and get the memory card of their cameras filled with tons of incredible pictures.

Having had such an outstanding day we celebrate our second rest day in El Calafate with some grilled lamb at night. Cheers!

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DAY 10: El Chalten - El Calafate

Leaving Fitz Roy and his magic charme behind the next morning we start our days ride to El Calafate. What will us expect there? Well,... have a look yourself.

After about two hours of riding we hit our first stop this morning. In Hotel Laledna we are supposed to have coffee and a nice rest in the sun. It was soooo nice and warm...

Some more beautiful riding later we stop again to breath in the scenery and to take pictures of the mountain ranges surrounding us.

All in all the day has been just right with not too much of exhausting riding but enough time to relax and remember that sometime, you have to sit down and enjoy.

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DAY 9: La Angostura - El Chalten

On a 20 day motorcycle tour going half way through a country I guess there must be days less spectacular than others. So today that could be such a day. The scenery still reminding of the wideness of Nevada and the roads being unpaved we make our way to El Chalten.

Hitting a pretty tricky pothole Glen unfortunately had to stop and wait for our Chilenean mechanic - Victor. Knowing that Victor is chasing our group with the van and carrying spare parts as well as tools keeps us feeling good riding all day long without seeing any traffic or any other people.

The rest of the group already waiting at our lunch stop for the guys repairing the tyre we notice that the bakery we´ve supposed to have lunch is closed. No problem, that about 50 people village has a fantastic supermarket and we get ourselves fed with energy drinks, joghurt and tons of pappas frittas (which is potato chips).

Shortly after lunch the pavement starts again and anyone in the group would lie if he said he felt sad about it.

Our next stop is supposed to be in El Chalten, located at the foothill of Fitz Roy that little town did not even exist 20 years ago. Johannes... stop... wait for us - we all want to see Fitz Roy when coming around the next corner.

So here it is. We´ve heard about it, we´ve seen pictures already and we knew we would get there. But looking at it with your own eyes is something you can not put into words... so guess how we feel when looking at Willi´s, and the two Michael´s faces!

Alright, let´s get to El Chalten. The view is even better there!

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DAY 8: Cochrane - La Angostura

We are starting early today since we have to ride quite a bit. So leaving our wonderful overnight stop in La Angostura we immediately continue with some demanding off-road riding. Today almost all of our way will be unpaved until we reach the Estancia in La Angostura - a place so far off everything that it feels being on the moon.

The first portion of our ride goes through fascinating scenery and along enormous rivers...

and we ride along one lane tracks up and down beautiful hills - what a blast!

The few Guanaco we meet along the route are far less interested in our group than we are in watching them.

Half the day is over already but still half the day of todays ride has to be done. The next hundreds of kilometres is going pretty much straight ahead which leaves enough time to watch the scenery descending from snow-capped mountains to Nevada like desert.

What an exhausting day that has been. Arriving at our overnight stop - the Estancia - we are really happy to have a rest and a barbecue waiting you´ve never had before! Yummie!

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DAY 7: Coyhaique - Cochrane

Having prayed to the motorcycle god for just a little bit of sunshine we really get not disappointed today. Well, the morning still feels a bit freeezing with -1.5 °C but only a few hours after the sun comes out - just in time to look at a number of amazing hairpin curves...

 Going a big number of kilometres each day the scenery keeps changing several times a day. Some people in our group say they have seen the Rocky Mountains already, others say they felt like being in Norway, the Alps and many other places!

 

At the latest by noon, after having had a delicious sandwich in that tiny little fishing village Dan is finally convinced that we won't see any rain today. So he tries hard to get rid of his rain gloves...

 

Another short gas stop and we continue our days ride.

As the riding is getting more and more challenging we have to concentrate 100% on the road. But still, we take some time to stop and enjoy the view...

 It's just unbelievable...

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DAY 6: Puyuhuapi - Coyhaique

 Well, our day today could be told in two words: "no comment". Have you ever seen 14 people trying to find shelter from the rain in a bus stop?

 If there have been a bus coming our way I bet 14 people had changed the bike for a bus ride in a minute...

 

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 DAY 5: Esquel - Puyuhuapi

 The absolute main highlight of the day is the ride itself. Once you get used to so much off-road the riding feels pretty easy.

 

 We longed for that river crossing a long long ... long time. Some of us (that´s Walt on this picture) take it with high speed...

 

 ... and some of us (that must be Glen) are even going a little bit faster.

 

 Something we tell each other at almost every briefing is to stop every now and then to enjoy the fascinating scenery.

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 DAY 4: Bariloche - Esquel

 Today more than 50 km of gravel - we are excited! So get up guys - finish your coffee - we have to go...

 

 Look at that scenery: Lago Puelo is just the right spot for a nice and welcome break.

 Having done almost 4 days already some of us feel a little tired. Good that the sun shines to have a little rest in the grass.

 

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 DAY 3: Bariloche

Having our first rest day on day 3 already we are not really up for a rest. So we jumped on our bikes and did an amazing rest day ride in and around Bariloche.

 

From top of this mountain you can see surely one of the most impressive landscapes to find in SA.

Actually our group consists of 14 riders plus the support crew - those who did that demanding rest day off-road ride we call the "hardcore guys in the group".

So, get's back to the hotel - a refreshing boot beer is waiting.

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DAY 2: Pucon - Bariloche

 

 Keeping the volcano always in sight we make our way through gravel and sand...

 That is our first border crossing from Chile to Argentina. About one hour and several stamps later we finally enter Argentina...

 The first 140 kilometres of off-road are an experience. About 1,800 km more to come...

 

 That kind of bridge-crossing looks more adventurous than it actually is. Michael is just practicing his riding...

  

 Our tour guide Florian at a nice picture stop. The waterfall behind looks small but is huge when getting closer.

We call that picture "picturing people taking pictures" - bikers overwhelmed by the beauty of South America.

So, that's it for now - more news will come soon!

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DAY 1: Osorno - Pucon

Bikers welcome to our live blog of the Edelweiss Bike Travel Patagonia motorcycle tour.

14 enthusiastic bike riders from the US, Canada, Switzerland, Germany and Austria as well as our German tour guide and Chilenean mechanic are part of our group to "el fin del mundo" - the end of the world.

Having survived a 13 hour flight (10 hours for our North American friends) the group finally arrives in Osorno/Chile - a welcome briefing and motorcycle take over later we finally take off...

Being prepared for the worst we actually get surprised by the weather on our very first day already. From far away we can see the snow-capped top of volcanoe Villarrica. Being surrounded by a bright blue sky this vista blows us away in a minute.

The ride to Pucon, our destination for today, is actually a great warm-up for the next three weeks. Amazing roads and incredible vistas belong to the main highlights today. And, another highlight is surely our lunch directly at lake Villarrica - with loads of fresh fish and some good laughs with our new-found friends.

By the way, that is Victor - our ever-smiling Chilenean mechanic. He speaks "motorcycle" at its best!

Some last pictures done at Lake Villarrica we shortly take off to make our way to Pucon - volcanoe Villarrica always in sight we finally arrive in Pucon and celebrate the first fond memories of this trip.

More news and pictures follow soon - stay tuned - as we do..

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Joanne McLeod
Monday, November 19, 2012 at 23:32

Thank-you Florian for the wonderful play by play of your incredible journey. It lets those of us at home feel like we were a "little" part of it with you all.
Namaste
Joanne
Florian
Tuesday, November 20, 2012 at 03:01

Hi Joanne,
thanks for the flowers but I have to pass them also to the nice members of my group! Without them this blog wouldn't have been that nice. I still don't know who is responsible for all the days with such a nice weather
Hope to see you one day!
H.H.V. Gritsch
Saturday, November 17, 2012 at 18:13

Hi Karin,
Nice greetz from home!! How are you? The old family part is fighting through the mysterious cyberspace all day , watching for pictures and wording to see if everthing is ok and things are going well on the tour... Have a good remaining time in this lost land and come home safely!! We are waiting!!
Nice regards,
Mom, Dad & H
Karin G.
Sunday, November 18, 2012 at 04:18

Hey family, well,.. what to say. EVERYTHING is going perfect. The sun shines all day long (very hot by the way I’ve got a huge sun ), the riding is spectacular and exhausting the same time and the group is so so much fun. Will try to keep in touch – my phone’s flat but internet should work the next days! Stay tuned – tomorrow we’ll run over the edge of the world – we might return home with a delay! Gruesse vom Ende der Welt, Karin
Francine Lafleur
Friday, November 16, 2012 at 13:53

Bonne fête Richard!!
PS: Les paysages sont super!
Francine
Richard
Sunday, November 18, 2012 at 02:35

Merci pour pour les souhaits de bonne fete. Nous sommes arriver a Ushuaia ce soir a 7:00 et oui les paysages sont a couper le souffle, plus que trois jours de moto avant le retour.
Joanne McLeod
Friday, November 16, 2012 at 18:19

Happy Birthday Richard, what a wonderful way to celebrate. Hope Glen sings you Happy Birthday, it's the only song he knows all the words to.
Have a good one.
Jo
Richard
Sunday, November 18, 2012 at 02:21

Hi Joanne,
Thanks forthe birthday wish, and yes Glen sing me Happy Birthday with a small portion of wine HA! HA! HA!
Karin G.
Sunday, November 18, 2012 at 04:11

Hey J-Bear, I've put my phone on record no worries. Once I'm back home I send you the file and you can hear Glenni singing happy birthday in his very deep tenor voice. )) Hope you are ok! K.
jeff kagey
Monday, November 19, 2012 at 15:36

hello karin ... thanks so much for that recording ...I am certain to get a good laugh ... please let glenn know that the news in the states has canada in a crisis .... BEER sales are down drastically in the last 15 days ... glen and richard have been away from canada for 15 days ... any connection a concerned USA neighbor to canada jeff
jeff kagey
Friday, November 16, 2012 at 22:14

boy I wish I was there to here that happy birthday richard jeff cheers
jeff kagey
Wednesday, November 14, 2012 at 15:13

to whom it may concern ..... great job on the blog and pictures ... this looks to be a GREAT tour .... jeff
Richard
Thursday, November 15, 2012 at 01:46

Hello Jeff, you should thank Florian for the nice pictures and words. He will be upgraded from a tour guide to a tour leader for our scooter trip. Be ready, we will get 50cc scooters only with knobby tyres. And you need your full face helmet. Greetings from Glen, Karin & Me of course!
jeff kagey
Thursday, November 15, 2012 at 22:08

hello richard ... I agree ... florian would make a great tour leader ... he did a great job on an alps tour I did ... I hope my favorite thing on this tour would be many water crossings ... I need the practice ... I will bring my swimsuit keep up the good work ... all of you ... thanks for the entertainment jeff
Florian Schmidbauer
Monday, November 19, 2012 at 16:28

Hi Jeff,
would have been nice to see you on tour again! But Patagonia will be there for longer. If the wheather will be like this trip is another story. But Richard is thinking to go on tour with me again next year... So there are chances! Wish you the best with your plans!
Florian
thomas
Wednesday, November 14, 2012 at 13:13

hi willi and everyone
just enjoyed your amasing fotos and stories....
hope you'll have a good ride!
greetings irene and thomas blank
Richard
Tuesday, November 13, 2012 at 19:41

Hey Jeff, I did practice my french after the pyrenees now I should have no problem going back to France . Karin says that our next tour will be a scooter in France and I should be able to do the translation. Chibougamau..... Glen says it will be an extreme scooter tour get reday for the gravel.
jeff kagey
Wednesday, November 14, 2012 at 20:50

sounds great richard ... I am in gravel only ... do we have a TOUR LEADER ? not just a tour guide jeff
Joanne McLeod
Tuesday, November 13, 2012 at 15:10

Hello there everyone, thanks for posting the beautiful pictures. Makes a person want to be there. The road to Estancia looks quite dusty, I bet there were a few boot beers enjoyed after that ride.
Only a biker knows why a dog sticks it's head out the window.
Joanne
Francine Lafleur
Monday, November 12, 2012 at 16:43

Allo Richard
looks like you guys are having a great trip! Enjoy!
Keep the rubber down!!
Francine
Karin G.
Monday, November 12, 2012 at 18:42

Salut Francine,
Yes were having a real good time and were just half way in the tour. Embrasse maman Jeanne pour moi et dit salut au reste de la famille.
Ciao Richard
jeff kagey
Monday, November 12, 2012 at 21:42

hey richard ... I understood a waitress in france told you to stick with english ... your french is not so good a lot of laughs followed that statement from her that evening ... jeff
Ruedi
Sunday, November 11, 2012 at 18:29

Spannender Blog; ich freue mich auf jeden neuen Eintrag.
Ich habe die Tour im Februar 2013 gebucht und bin bereits ungeduldig.
Bleibt alle oben und geniesst eure Zeit!
Ruedi
Karin G.
Monday, November 12, 2012 at 18:38

Hello Rudi, from what we have witnessed so far, take out your suitcase and start to pack. You will not regret having booked this tour. Cheers from the Patagonia heroes! Glen, Richard, Florian and Karin
Ruedi
Wednesday, November 14, 2012 at 12:00

¡Hola Karin & co.!
Muchas gracias por tu atención.
Voy hacer las maletas el último momento ...
Weiterhin viel Spass und warme Hände
Ruedi
.. der sich mit 'e' nach dem 'u' schreibt
Dieses wird im Schweizerdeutschen auch (gedämpft) ausgesprochen;o))
Lasst Euch das mal vom Schweizer Kollegen vorsagen und übt schön Ihr Patagonian heroes ...
Karin G.
Friday, November 16, 2012 at 11:00

Hallo Ruedi, da hat sich wohl ein Typo eingeschlichen. Wir freuen uns, dass du unsere Reise voller Spannung folgst - es kommen noch viele tolle Bilder auf dich zu! Schoene Gruesse, die Jungs & Maedls vom Ende der Welt
Cornelia H.
Thursday, November 8, 2012 at 23:08

Karin, it's cold at home, enjoy the warmer weather.
Joanne McLeod
Wednesday, November 7, 2012 at 14:27

Looks like you guys are having an incredible journey. Great pictures, nice to be able to follow you.
Glen, bring back some of that sunshine.
Ride on,
Joanne
Glen
Thursday, November 8, 2012 at 22:16

Xxx
jeff kagey
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 22:03

hola glenson ... good to see you are getting support from home ... hello joanne ..I am still having boot beers every evening here is to you and the troops ... prost jeffson
Joanne McLeod
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 23:04

Hey there Jeff, it looks like the gang is having a great time. I think Edelweiss is going to have to develop a new tour. "The Boot Beer Tour", only for the hardiest of riders. It's great watching them as they go but I am sure they miss your company.
Jo
jeff kagey
Wednesday, November 14, 2012 at 15:01

hello jo ... great idea ... I am in ... as well as glen and richard ...we may need karin to organize ... I am certain a few more canadians as well would be interested a few locals here as well jeffson
jeff kagey
Monday, November 5, 2012 at 15:03

It is good to see the smiles on my friends faces on this tour ... glen and rich ... SHIBUCABOO !!!!!!!! and for karin ... still looking good ... GREAT BOOTS .... jeff
Thomas
Wednesday, November 7, 2012 at 10:57

Hey Jeff, how come you're not there ????????????????
jeff kagey
Wednesday, November 7, 2012 at 17:21

hello thomas ... yes I should be there ... s america looks great ... and I regret my decision to not go there and have fun with my friends ... but I chose a responsible direction to buy rental property next to my business location ... BUT I will be back on more tours soon ... and how are you doing ... seen you in africa on tour ... hope all is well with you ... and I hope my friends are enjoying many boot beers in s america jeff
Karin G.
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 02:52

hey j-bear, we wish you were part of our experience this tour is just so so much fun. the roads we take are exceptional, and the scenery blows you away. be sure we think of you at EVERY watercrossing. ))
K.
jeff kagey
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 22:00

thanks schnukieputsie ... you always know what to say ... I did see pictures of my favorite thing off road .... water crossings ...shame I am not there to fall down in them ha ha and it is ok to share my problems with water crossings ... keep having fun jeff
Richard
Thursday, November 8, 2012 at 21:48

Hello Jeff, Yes we are having many boots beers and they are awfully good " Chibougameau"
jeff kagey
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 22:05

hello richard ... thanks for keepng my buddies beers full ... prost to you jeff
Karin G.
Sunday, November 4, 2012 at 03:15

Howdy family, hoffe ihr "watched den blog". )) Uns geht es hervorragend in SA. Das Essen ist super, die Routen fantastisch und das Land einfach klasse. Gruß an alle - more news to follow...
Cornelia H.
Thursday, November 8, 2012 at 22:58

Hello Karin,
have a great time and vacation.
We are thinking of you every day and we are looking forward to the many stories when you are back in office. See you and take care. CH/FA
EdelweissBikeTravel
Friday, November 9, 2012 at 02:49

Hey conni,
thanks for your good wishes. I have to say I am totally "off" the normal life right now. we are enjoying ourselves to much it's incredible. hope we will have internet the next days to keep up with the blog. greetings to all of you, k.

Boletín

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