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Pearls of the Adriatic Sea (CAS2303)

Wednesday, October 11, 2023 | Tom Friden / Thomas Repplinger / Sebastian Gohlke | Europe

Welcome to Split

Before embarking on our thrilling motorcycle tour along the stunning Adriatic coastline, our diverse crew gathered in the vibrant city of Split, Croatia. We were a lively group of 15 riders, hailing from both Canada and the United States, with a spirited trio from Ireland. One dedicated wife will follow us on her own adventure by car and join us at our overnight headquarters to share daily stories.

 

Our journey will commence in the charming city of Split, Croatia, where we will gather and prepare for the epic adventure ahead. The motorcycles will be fueled, the gear checked, and our spirits high as we introduce ourselves, forging the first bonds of what promises to be an unforgettable experience.

 

From Split, our path will lead us to the enchanting island of Hvar, passing through iconic destinations such as the historic city of Dubrovnik and the captivating Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. Each twist and turn of the road will reveal new vistas of the Adriatic’s crystal-clear waters, picturesque coastal villages, and lush landscapes.

 

As we approach Dubrovnik, the anticipation builds, knowing that we are about to explore the city’s medieval charm and historic treasures. The beauty of the Old Town, nestled within ancient walls, will be a sight to behold.

 

Continuing southward, we’ll reach the dramatic Bay of Kotor, where the rugged mountains meet the tranquil waters. Here, we’ll uncover the secrets of Kotor’s old town, feeling like time travelers amidst the cliffs and serene bay.

 

Our journey will then turn northward, leading us to Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, a city famous for its iconic Stari Most bridge and rich cultural heritage. Here, we’ll immerse ourselves in local traditions, savoring unique flavors and sharing stories with the welcoming residents.

 

Finally, we’ll make our way to Zadar, Croatia, a city known for its innovative Sea Organ and the breathtaking Greeting to the Sun installation. Here, we’ll watch the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky with vivid colors, and savor the moments of serenity and wonder.

 

In this upcoming adventure, we will experience the beauty of the Adriatic coastline and its countless cultural and scenic attractions. We’re eager to connect with fellow riders beyond borders, creating memories that will last a lifetime and forging bonds that transcend geographical boundaries. The open road beckons, and our journey is just around the corner.

 

We can't await the adventure to start.

 

So see you tomorrow for our first riding day.

 

Your crew.

 

Sebastian Thomas and Tom.

 

Day 1: Split - Hvar

"Croatian Coastal Delights:

Day 1 of our Motorcycle Adventure"

 

The sun hung low over the charming city of Split, Croatia, as our group of eager adventurers revved up our motorcycles, ready to kick off our exhilarating journey along the Croatian coastline and its scenic countryside. Our first day promised excitement, stunning landscapes, and the thrill of the open road.

 

Coastal Bliss in Split:

Our adventure began in Split, a city steeped in history and charm. Its ancient streets, adorned with centuries-old stone buildings, set the perfect backdrop for our epic ride. As we wound through the city's picturesque alleyways, it was clear that this journey was going to be special.

 

Heading Inland to Cetina Gorge:

Leaving the coast behind, we ventured inland toward the Cetina Gorge, a natural wonder of epic proportions. The switchback roads challenged our riding skills, but the reward was well worth it. At every turn, we were greeted with jaw-dropping views of the rugged terrain, lush forests, and the snaking river below. It was a spectacular introduction to Croatia's inland beauty.

 

The Makarska Riviera and a Scenic Lunch:

After soaking up the sights and sounds of the Cetina Gorge, our journey continued along the Makarska Riviera. The coastal road offered breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea, and it was hard to resist the temptation to stop at every vista point to capture the beauty of the coastline.

 

Our rumbling stomachs led us to our lunch stop at the Drvenik ferry port. Here, we were treated to local cuisine and mouthwatering seafood dishes that left our taste buds dancing. It was a taste of Croatia that we would cherish throughout our trip.

 

Sailing to Hvar Island:

With satisfied appetites, we boarded a ferry that would transport us to one of Croatia's most exquisite gems – Hvar Island. As the ferry glided over the crystal-clear waters, we couldn't help but marvel at the beauty that surrounded us.

 

Hvar's Olive Orchards and Lavender Fields:

Upon reaching Hvar, we embarked on a scenic ride along the island's single road, stretching from east to west. The journey took us through sprawling olive orchards and lavender fields. It was incredible to think that some of these orchards were initially cultivated by the Greeks over two millennia ago. The fragrant air and the vivid colors of the lavender fields made this leg of our journey truly unforgettable.

 

Exploring Stari Grad and Beachside Relaxation:

As the day wound down, a few of us decided to visit Stari Grad, the oldest city in Croatia. We enjoyed a leisurely coffee stop and explored the city's rich cultural heritage, taking in its ancient streets and historic landmarks.

 

The rest of our group headed to our hotel, situated along a pristine beach. With the sound of waves in the background, we relaxed and reflected on the incredible experiences of our first day. The sense of camaraderie and excitement among our group was palpable.

 

A Day to Remember:

Our first day along the Croatian coastline and countryside had amazed us in every possible way. The breathtaking landscapes, the delicious cuisine, and the camaraderie of fellow riders had left us exhilarated. As we retired to our rooms, we couldn't help but wonder what surprises tomorrow's journey would bring. One thing was for certain: this adventure was off to an incredible start, and the road ahead held endless promise.

Cetina Gorge
These colours are just amazing….
The fortress of Hvar

Day 2: Hvar - Dubrovnik

Riding Along the Adriatic Coast: Day 2 of Our Adventure

 

Our second riding day along the breathtaking Adriatic Sea brought a few unexpected twists, reminding us that every journey has its unique stories. As we gathered in the morning sun, one of our fellow Canadian riders felt under the weather and made the wise decision to take it easy for the day, riding in the van. This meant an extra motorcycle had to be securely loaded, alongside luggage for our group of 19 adventurers. It was quite the logistical challenge, but with teamwork and determination, we made it work.

 

Loading Up and Setting Out:

With our gear and an extra bike carefully stowed away, we were finally ready to hit the road. Our first mission was to make our way off the island, which meant heading to the ferry port. The ride to the port was a joy in itself, as we navigated the island's curvy roads, soaking in the early morning sun. Fortunately, our early departure meant we encountered minimal traffic, allowing us to savor every twist and turn.

 

Back on the Mainland:

Returning to the mainland, we continued our journey along the coastal roads, the Adriatic's sparkling waters on one side, and picturesque villages on the other. The road eventually led us inland for a brief spell, guiding us past the serene Bacinska Lakes and towards the monumental Peljeski Bridge, an engineering marvel that connected us to our next adventure.

 

Discovering Ston's Treasures:

The highlight of our day awaited us in the charming village of Ston, famous for its historic fortifications and imposing fortress. Here, we stumbled upon a local restaurant, offering the freshest seafood, the flavors of which danced on our palates during our well-deserved lunch break. With satisfied appetites, we meandered through the village's narrow streets, exploring its rich history and capturing snapshots of its unique character.

 

The Mountainous Descent to Dubrovnik:

Our journey was far from over as we embarked on a mountainous descent towards the breathtaking city of Dubrovnik. The winding roads offered thrilling vistas and a sense of adventure as we descended towards our overnight stop.

 

Reflecting on a Fabulous Day:

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we couldn't help but reflect on the incredible experiences of the day. Unexpected challenges had brought us closer, and the beauty of the Adriatic coastline had left an indelible mark on our souls. With the promise of cold beers and a natural sea pool to unwind, we knew our evening in Dubrovnik would be just as memorable.

 

Rest and Recharge:

Now, it's time to rest, kick back with a cold beer, and embrace the tranquility of the sea. Tomorrow, our journey along the Adriatic coast continues, and we can't wait to see what new impressions and adventures await us on the open road.

New location for the daily briefing, this time we decided to use the half an hour ferry ride to explain what is still ahead of us the rest of the day.
The trio from ireland and Rob.
The city of Ston, perfect for our lunch stop.

Day 3: Dubrovnik - Kotor

Today was another magnificent blue day. The water glistened and the sky shone deep blue. In the morning we could admire the next pearl of the Adriatic: Dubrovnik. What a gathering of European history in one city. Uniquely well preserved, the old town invited us to explore. After an introduction and recommendations, everyone had the morning at leisure in the city.

We then drove up to Srd Fortress and enjoyed the view. The cool breeze was very welcome.

Now our lunch was not far away. And once again, what a bay! Calm waters, palm trees and intense colours. The Adriatic Sea has everything going for it.

The afternoon then took us across the border to Montenegro. The border crossing was quick and after another 30 minutes we got onto the small ferry across the strait to Kotor.

The terrace looks very inviting and so we spend the rest of the evening right on the water in the bay of Kotor.

The little streets in Dubrovnik are inviting us to get lost.
What a view over the old town of Dubrovnik.
Lunchstop at the coast with delicious local food.
The view from our hotel could be definitely worse…
Our crew from Canada enjoying the besuty of Kotors bay.

Day 4: Kotor restday

An Adventurous Rest Day: Exploring Montenegro's Beauty

 

Every journey needs moments of relaxation and rejuvenation, and today was our well-deserved rest day on our Adriatic motorcycle adventure. Some of our fellow riders decided to give their bikes a break, while the rest of us eagerly geared up for a shorter ride, with a twist – a surprise waiting for us at lunchtime.

 

Setting Out from Kotor:

Our overnight stay in Kotor had been comfortable, but the call of the open road beckoned. We kicked off the day by heading south from Kotor, right into the majestic Montenegrin mountains. Narrow, winding roads greeted us at the doorstep of Kotor, promising a thrilling start to our rest day ride.

 

Ascending the Mountain Pass:

The first leg of our journey took us up a mountain pass with no less than 25 switchbacks. As the morning sun graced us with perfect weather, we navigated the challenging curves with precision. The reward at the top was a viewpoint offering a breathtaking panorama of the Bay of Kotor. It was a truly exhilarating way to begin the day.

 

Through Lovćen National Park:

Our ride continued through Lovćen National Park, where wide and impeccably maintained roads wound through a captivating landscape. The roads were almost exclusively ours, as we encountered very little traffic along the way. We found a quiet and remote spot for our first coffee break, savoring the moment and the serenity of the surroundings.

 

Scenic Road Along Lake Skadar:

Our journey took us next to Lake Skadar, the largest lake in Montenegro and a designated national park area. This stunning lake straddles the border with Albania and can vary in size depending on the season and weather conditions. Riding along its shores on a panoramic road was a visual delight, and we couldn't resist stopping for photos to capture its beauty.

 

Budva's Coastal Charm:

From there, our route led us to the coastal town of Budva. The road along the coast was a highlight in itself, offering incredible views of the Adriatic Sea.

 

A Picnic Surprise in Kotor:

As we made our way back to Kotor, anticipation grew in the group for the surprise awaiting us. We arrived back to find Sebastian, who had prepared a traditional Edelweiss picnic right at the waterfront of the Bay of Kotor. The joyful atmosphere was palpable as we enjoyed a delicious meal together, surrounded by the stunning scenery.

 

A Day of Joy and Fun:

Our rest day ride had turned out to be anything but restful. The thrill of the road, the breathtaking vistas, and the surprise picnic had left us all beaming with happiness. It was evident in every smile and every laugh shared among our group.

 

Enjoying Kotor's Charms:

With the rest of the day at our disposal, some of us opted to explore the medieval city of Kotor, while others chose to cool off in the inviting waters of the bay. We looked forward to a delightful dinner in Kotor later in the evening, ready to savor the culinary delights of Montenegro.

 

As we reflected on this incredible rest day, it was clear that moments like these were what made our Adriatic motorcycle adventure truly unforgettable. The road had more adventures in store for us, but for now, we would savor the joy of today's ride and the bonds we'd formed along the way.

 

See you tomorrow for the next episode of our trip.

Cheers.

The first switchbacks of the day…
What sn incredibly beautiful view.
Curves….
…..curves…
….and more curves through the Lovcen national park.
Paul is enjoying both, his BMW and the panoramic road.
Peter his good friend is right on his back…
Bill can’t get enough from edelweiss tours… over 20 tours already on his list.

Day 5: Kotor - Mostar

The route today took us from Kotor in Montenegro to Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina. After we circled the bay of Kotor, shortly after the start at the hotel, we drove the first curves up into the mountains. No comparison to the Alps, but still you get into a certain flow and enjoy the almost empty roads on the way to the border with Bosnia. Just as it went up to the border, it then goes down again to Trebinje, a nice little town in Bosnia. After that it went through a pretty lonely area in which you meet here and there a few cows on the roadside. Fortunately, none stood on the road

The destination Mostar is known for its old bridge as well as the meeting point of Orient and Occident. After the muezzin called for evening prayers, we walked to the old town for dinner. What a day! 

Border crossing to Bosnia
The Bridge in Mostar at night
A visitor in the Kotor bay

Day 6: Mostar - Zadar

Riding the Hidden Roads: Day 6 of Our Adriatic Motorcycle Odyssey

 

Our sixth riding day through the captivating landscapes of Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia promised another exhilarating adventure as we departed from Mostar, with Zadar as our final destination. After a delightful evening in Mostar, exploring its charming streets and savoring local cuisine, we woke up with renewed excitement for what lay ahead.

 

Morning Magic in Mostar:

Our journey began with a meandering ride through the city streets of Mostar. Before leaving the city behind, we decided to start the day on a high note by ascending to a breathtaking viewpoint. From this vantage point, we were treated to a panoramic view of Mostar, a city that had left a lasting impression on our hearts.

 

Off the Beaten Path:

Our route led us along the main roads, occasionally indulging us with a series of delightful curves. Then, as if by design, we veered off the well-traveled path onto narrow, twisty roads that seemed to wind through the middle of nowhere. The landscape transformed as we rode; there were scarcely any signs of civilization, and it felt as if we were the only souls in the wilderness.

 

Lake Buško - A Refreshing Oasis:

Suddenly, like an oasis in the desert, a vast expanse of water appeared before us - Lake Buško. This man-made lake is renowned for its watersports and serves as a popular recreation area, particularly during the scorching summer months. Riding along its shores, we couldn't help but marvel at the serene beauty it offered.

 

Crossing Borders:

Our journey continued as we crossed the border, reentering Croatia - the place where our adventure began a week ago. This familiar territory was a testament to the incredible distances we'd covered and the diverse landscapes we'd encountered.

 

Remote and Twisty Roads:

The afternoon saw us navigating remote, winding roads that seemed to lead us deeper into the wilderness. Though it occasionally felt like we were in uncharted territory, we rode with confidence, knowing that every twist and turn was part of the adventure.

 

A Refreshing Pause:

An afternoon coffee stop became an ice cream indulgence, a sweet treat to rejuvenate our spirits as we continued our journey. With every mile, the anticipation of reaching Zadar and our overnight headquarters grew.

 

The Kamenjak Lookout - A Final Flourish:

Before we reached our destination, one more breathtaking view awaited us at the Kamenjak Lookout Point. The vistas from this vantage were nothing short of awe-inspiring, and we paused to take it all in. It was a fitting climax to our day of exploration.

 

Riding Along the Coast:

With hearts full of memories and cameras filled with picturesque landscapes, we set our course along the Adriatic coast, ready to complete the final leg of our journey to Zadar.

 

As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with hues of orange and purple, we approached Zadar, our resting place for the night. It had been another day filled with surprises, stunning scenery, and the camaraderie of fellow riders.

 

With the promise of a good night's rest and new adventures on the horizon, we knew that our Adriatic motorcycle odyssey was far from over.

View over Mostar
Border crossing ahead.
Riding through the middle of nowhere.
A part of the crew in the middle of nowhere…
Time for ice cream…
The 3G crew (the Gaelic Guzzle Gang)…this time with icecream in their hands instead of an icecold beer…sorry you have to wait a bit the day’s not over yet.
Group picture at Kamenjak view point

Day 7: Zadar

Day 7 of Our Adriatic Motorcycle Adventure: Zadar's Two Routes to Beauty

 

Day 7 of our thrilling Adriatic motorcycle adventure brought us to Zadar, a city filled with history and charm. For our second rest day, we faced a delightful dilemma – two tempting routes to choose from, each offering a distinct flavor of natural beauty.

 

Option 1: Krka National Park - Chasing Waterfalls

 

The group that opted for the first route decided to maximize their time in the Krka National Park. To get there quickly, they zoomed along the highway. However, a minor setback awaited them – they narrowly missed the boat ride that would have taken them up the river to witness the waterfalls up close. But, undeterred, they pressed on to another park entrance and hopped on a bus to reach the starting point for their hiking adventure.

 

As they embarked on their hike, a wonderland of waterfalls, lush greenery, and untouched landscapes unfolded before them, casting a spell that made it feel like a page out of a fairytale. The group rendezvoused with Thomas at the dreamlike visovacko lake, where they indulged in a second Edelweiss picnic. The clear, fresh waters of the lake provided a refreshing respite before they journeyed back to the coast, tracing the breathtaking coastline to Zadar.

 

Option 2: Velebit National Park - Highs and Lows of Adventure

 

Meanwhile, the adventurers who chose the second route embarked on a quest into the heart of the Velebit National Park. Their morning began with a quest for coffee in the charming low season surroundings. But the hunt for a cup of joe was a prelude to a magnificent journey.

 

Their route led them up to an elevation of 800 meters on the high plateau, an experience filled with autumnal beauty and a touch of history, as they briefly visited the birthplace of the legendary Nikola Tesla. Lunch marked the next stop on their adventure.

 

But it was what came next that truly took their breath away – a tunnel passage that led to an unexpected and mesmerizing view of the Adriatic Sea. The next 80 kilometers were a paradise of thrilling curves, offering a unique slice of the Mediterranean to fine-tune their riding skills. Arriving at the hotel ahead of the other group, they basked in the gentle afternoon sun, their hearts still racing from the exhilarating ride.

 

Day 7 was a day of choices, where every member of our motorcycle adventure got to tailor their experience to their preferences. Whether it was chasing waterfalls in Krka National Park or embracing the winding roads through Velebit National Park, the beauty of the Adriatic coastline never ceased to amaze. Zadar, with its rich history and vibrant atmosphere, served as the perfect backdrop for the tales and memories that were created on this unforgettable day. Stay tuned for more from our Adriatic motorcycle adventure!

Option 1: Krka National Park
We proudly present: the famous Edelweiss picnic
The gaelic guzzle gang also made it to the picnic stop.
Option 2: Velebit National Park

Day 8: Zadar - Split

Journey's End: The Grand Finale of Our Adriatic Motorcycle Adventure

 

As the sun dawned on our eighth and final day of our Adriatic motorcycle adventure, a sense of both joy and melancholy filled the air. We had journeyed through Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia, forging unforgettable memories and bonds. Today, our path would lead us from Zadar back to Split, where our adventure began.

 

A Memorable Evening in Zadar:

The previous evening had seen us exploring the charming city of Zadar in different groups, savoring local cuisine and soaking in the city's atmosphere. With laughter and stories shared, we retired to our accommodations, eager for what our last day would bring.

 

Seaside Group Picture and Daily Briefing:

Our final day began with a group picture by the seaside of Zadar. It was a poignant moment, a snapshot of the riders who had embarked on this remarkable journey together. It was also the perfect backdrop for Thomas's daily briefing, a blend of important information and camaraderie that had become a cherished part of our daily routine.

 

Mixed Emotions on the Road:

As we mounted our motorcycles one last time, mixed emotions washed over us. Happiness for the incredible journey we'd experienced, and a tinge of sadness that it was coming to an end. Our engines roared to life, and we set out for the last time, ready to embrace the road.

 

Krka National Park's Curvy Roads:

Our route took us through the enchanting Krka National Park, where curvy roads led us through the natural beauty of the park. Unfortunately, our first coffee stop within the park was closed, but little did we know, an amazing surprise awaited us.

 

Visovac Monastery's Lookout Point:

Our journey led us to the Visovac Monastery, a place of serenity and spirituality nestled on the island of Visovac within the Krka National Park. This Catholic monastery, part of the Franciscan Province of the Most Holy Redeemer, offered a tranquil pause on our ride. From the monastery's lookout point, we gazed upon breathtaking views, a reminder of the beauty we'd encountered on this adventure.

 

A Hidden Gem for Coffee and Lunch:

Our quest for coffee took an unexpected turn as we asked locals for recommendations. We stumbled upon a beautiful guesthouse, a hidden gem that surpassed our expectations. It was a peaceful oasis, a perfect spot for both coffee and lunch. With satisfied stomachs and rejuvenated souls, we pressed on.

 

Tiny Curvey Roads with a View:

Riding through vineyards and mountains, we ventured onto tiny, curvy roads rarely traveled. Around a corner, a surprise awaited us as we found ourselves back on the coastline, greeted by vistas that stole our breaths away.


Cruising to Split:

From there, it was a smooth cruise along the coastline, the Adriatic Sea whispering its farewells. As Split came into view, we knew our journey was coming full circle.

 

Farewell Dinner and New Friends:

The day's ride concluded, and evening descended upon Split. We gathered for a farewell dinner filled with laughter and, yes, a few tears. The bonds forged on this journey were unbreakable, and the camaraderie was as enduring as the memories we'd created.

 

A Journey Beyond Words:

As we reflected on our Adriatic motorcycle adventure, there were no words to fully capture the magic of the past week. We had explored, laughed, and shared stories. We had become a family of riders, united by the open road and a thirst for adventure.

 

Our tires may have reached the end of this journey, but our hearts and spirits had only just begun. This was more than a motorcycle adventure; it was a journey of the soul, a testament to the enduring power of camaraderie and the call of the open road. Our memories would be cherished, and the road ahead held the promise of new adventures and friendships yet to be discovered.

Daily briefing at the beach.
Krka national park
Amazing spot for a group picture
Visovac Monastery's Lookout Point
Our hidden treasure for lunch stop…
Tim and Cornelia enjoying the time after lunch surrounded by olive trees.
Time to hit the road again..
Roman arch of Burnum
Steve, the dark knight of the guzzle gang.
What a spectacular vista.
A little nap after riding
Farewell dinner
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